Valentino’s black paradise

«There are many ways to interpret black, I wanted to explore its boundless possibilities and uncover the light within its depths». This season, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s reflection for Valentino begins with the deepest of colors, chosen to shape the entire collection. A total of 63 looks navigates through the infinite nuances of black, guided by a profound exploration of materials. Models parade through the opulent rooms of Karl Lagerfeld’s former Parisian residence, accompanied by Sade’s voice mixed with Alexandre Desplat’s cinematic notes, their lips lacquered in black, and their hair elegantly gathered and parted by a wave on the forehead.

Drawing inspiration from the works of Mark Rothko and Constantin Brâncusi, Piccioli taps into the most feminine codes of Valentino’s 1980s aesthetic from flared skirts to roses, ruches to bows reinterpreting them with a contemporary touch through the craftsmanship of the ateliers. «I wanted to emphasize elements inherently tied to femininity», Piccioli explains. «In the ‘80s, powerful women dressed like men, leaving ruffles and bows to the women supporting them. I chose to strip away the fragility associated with these codes while simultaneously making tailoring lighter and more romantic», the Designer continued. Therefore, black serves as a social message. «I believe there is a reactionary sentiment in everything. Today, we must seek light in the darkness. As Baudelaire said, ‘Black is the uniform of democracy’».

Valentino’s uniform features a sophisticated ensemble consisting of ankle-grazing coats and versatile pieces. Masculine-cut shorts set the tone for the season’s minimal lengths, while hooded sweatshirts are elevated through meticulous craftsmanship, transformed into bombers paired with flared skirts or integrated into the innovative silhouette of a coat. Delicate tulle skirts are paired with a wool men’s shirt elegantly tied at the hips, revealing a peek of the lace camisole underneath.

A voluminous duffle coat, embellished with raffia and organza feathers, leaves the legs exposed. The peacoat is adorned with sequins cut like soft feathers, while sweatshirts and tulle skirts are graced with crocheted wool flowers. A wool fur, cinched at the waist with a belt, engages in a visual conversation with a coat entirely embroidered with a foliage motif, replicated on the underlying tulle dress. Eveningwear also embraces a disruptive modernity, featuring T-shirt-cut dresses that embrace the body and chiffon transparencies draping over masculine trousers.

Judgment. Immediately desirable, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for Valentino offers a contemporary interpretation of deluxe ready-to-wear. The collection combines versatile pieces with precious items distinguished by meticulous craftsmanship, refined cuts, and accessories such as booties and shoppers adorned with rose petals. (All rights reserved)