English
Rewilding Chloé
Fashion designer Gabriela Hearst, who has always been attentive to the problems of nature, cites the climax solution in her show. And she looks for inspiration in Franco Zeffirelli's film "Brother Sun, Sister Moon" about Saint Francis, the patron saint of ecologists, parading on the same day as the launch 50 years ago. On stage riders with nails and explorers
Culture
Noir Saint Laurent
A night atmosphere full of pathos hovers over the show. Anthony Vaccarello imagines an introspective collection for the Maison owned by Kering Group. Among long sinuous dresses worn with structured coats, faux fur coats with 80s vibes and a reinterpretation of the iconic tuxedo with jackets worn on bare skin and pants slipping softly on heels
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Dior's tech atelier
«My challenge was to give life to a dialogue between what is sartorial and what is technological», Maria Grazia Chiuri explained talking about the womenswear style of the Lvmh group maison, which reinterprets iconic garments such as the Bar jacket thanks to the contribution of the start-up D-Air Lab, among thermoregulating materials and protective corsets inspired by motorcycling
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Milan promoted by the buyers
Thanks to an agenda full of live shows, energy and creativity, the Italian Fashion Week seduced the buyers interviewed by MFF. Top collections were Prada, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Versace, Dolce&Gabbana and Jil Sander. The shows of Palm Angels, Andreadamo and Marco Rambaldi stood out among the younger ones
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Prada mode
Allusions to the fashion house’s DNA, to the 90s, searching for a beauty that is at times basic with iconic highlights. Which is represented by a cast of models loved by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, from Kaia Gerber to Mica Argañaraz to Hunter Schafer, actress in Euphoria
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Hard & soft Fendi
«I created a dual conversation between a collection from 1996 and one from 2000», Kim Jones explained to MFF, paying homage to the history of the Lvmh maison by drawing inspiration from its women, in a mix of sensual chiffons and sharp tailoring, between pastel colours and masculine fabrics, slip dresses and geometric prints
English
Le dive seventies di Halpern
Uno show al Brixton recreation centre ispirato ad Angelica Houston, attrice cult delle pellicole de La famiglia Addams
English
Long live the Quinn
London to pass the baton to Milan. The city closed a transitional edition without big names such as Burberry or Victoria Beckham. It crowned the creative awarded by Queen Elizabeth. «The government should support us after the Brexit», Caroline Rush, ceo of the Bfc, told MFF, in order to relaunch Brit fashion industry which used to have a turnover of 35 billion pounds before Covid-19
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Armani: «I’m bringing the spirit of A|X to Milan»
«Every project that concerns this city has a special meaning to me», the designer, who today opens his first Italian store of the young brand launched in 1991 in New York, explained to MFF. Boutiques in Rome, Amsterdam, Berlin and London are coming soo
English
God save London
London Fashion Week (LFW) starts today amidst lights and shadows, with 37 physical fashion shows and 129 designers, including Vivienne Westwood, who anticipated some looks exclusively for MFF. With big absentees from Burberry to Beckham, the focus is on young people to relaunch Brit fashion which, pre-pandemic, used to invoice 35 billion pounds
English
Glam slam for Michael Kors
An ode to New York and its ability to react. The American designer cites the Big Apple’s resilience by looking to the early 90s in terms of style and women. He brings to the stage a casting of tops from Malgosia to Karmen Pedaru, from Natasha Poly to Irina Shayk
English
Tory & the City
A night fashion show in a skyscraper with the words “New Yorker” in the background for Tory Burch, giving a glimpse of the women of the city that never sleeps, in a relaxed mix of American sportswear and 80s citations, asymmetries, tailoring and deconstructed pieces
