Tory & the City

«New York is coming back». These are the words of Tory Burch herself in recounting a special moment, for the city that never sleeps and for the message launched by the American designer’s show. The thousand lights of the Big Apple have, in fact, a new red seal, which unites two symbols in the night: the words New Yorker in big letters, iconic sign of the historic hotel, and a heart above the name Tory. Precisely because the designer continues to support several places in the metropolis and, this time, contributed to the fund for the restoration of the famous writing, which also seems to be a real message. «The collection opened with the women of New York City, unique people who attract the eye», Tory Burch herself explained to MFF minutes after her first evening show, in a breath-taking location, the 25th floor of Hudson Yards, with the view completely unveiled by glass walls. «We explored this theme through the lens of form, geometry, colour and transformability. A study on contrasts, tailoring and deconstructed, opulent and essential, surrealist and sporty».

It is precisely the spirit of American sportswear that represents a first common thread, in those looks opening the show, with a leader like the top model Edie Campbell. Featuring a simplicity that mixes uptown and downtown. Sweaters like gym blouses with stripes on the sides, soft pants, square toe mules with XXL buttons in suede and bags with classic shapes that have transformable details. Starting from the expandable gusset on the zippers of the Spaghetti strap round bucket, opening to reveal the contrasting colours of the T monogram motif.

A clever game of asymmetries aiming to break the rules of an overly precise silhouette. Here are belts with an irregular cut, bustiers with beads, layering peeking out from the overlaps, up to subtle allusions to the artistic movement of Memphis, particularly to the work of Nathalie du Pasquier. The night becomes artsy. With those clothes looking like a palette in which colours blend together. A night enhanced by the special notes of the soundtrack by Patti Smith. Because the night.

Judgment. Tory Burch is a bit like Sex & the City, well representing the spirit of today’s New York. With her dynamic women, with that refined simplicity which becomes an important mark for the collection. As Sarah Jessica Parker would say, And just like that... (All rights reserved)