Brunello Cucinelli: «My tribute to China»

«For us, China is very important». This is how Brunello Cucinelli began to tell his new adventure in Shanghai, where he planned a two-day meeting, «craft events as we call them, from 100 to 200 people to dialogue with». An appointment with a name that immediately recalls an important connection: a journey of beauty from Solomeo to Shanghai. Starting from the evening in the charming area of Zang Yuan, whose aesthetics have been preserved and restored. The brand hosted a gala dinner in the 19th-century Jingan district, which is renowned for its Shikumen architectural style. Massimo Ambrosetti, the Italian ambassador to China, and Tiziana D'angelo, the Italian consul general, were among the guests.

Many Asian celebrities have participated in the event, including Liu Tao, who has been associated with the brand for years due to their friendship, and Zhang Ziyi, who is best known in the West for her role in the iconic movie Memoirs of a Geisha. Another prominent figure is Chinese-American Eileen Gu, a skier-free stylist and multiple Olympic medalist who was one of the models who presented the s-s 2025 collection, which included a walk among guests, a final tableau vivant, and an exhibition set up to convey the brand’s values.

When asked about the Chinese crisis and its effect on luxury consumption, Brunello Cucinelli himself responded, «China is working to achieve a new balance. They now have a Gdp of 18 trillion, up from 1 trillion in 2000. Even though it grows a bit less now, it still does so in very large volumes. China will be our welfare for the next 50 years». A relationship with Italy and a renewed sense of trust were established during the Heritage-reimagined meeting, which was a conversation between Shanghai and Solomeo. In front of roughly 200 guests, Tongyi university, which is particularly well-known for its architecture faculty and its department devoted to urbanization, organized the meeting. While only yesterday, receiving a prize in New York, he announced: «We will make a documentary with Giuseppe Tornatore (winner of the Oscar, ed.)». It will be released in the second half of 2025.

How important is China for the Group?

China generates about 13% of our revenues, almost half of the 27% coming from Asia. Furthermore, our cashmere comes from China, so this raw material is 90% Chinese and 10% Mongolian.

You have visited this country for many years. Have you seen it change?

I have known this country since 1989, when I came for the first time to buy cashmere. I have seen many important changes. Here in China my great master Confucius used to say «I do not innovate anything, I transmit» This idea of being a guardian resonated and sticked with me with time… I would like to be a good guardian.

What do you think about the current crisis of this market?

I am actually very positive about it. I come here at least once a year. Here and in Mongolia.. the last time I ended up in the biggest sandstorm of the last 50 years… This country in 2000 had a Gdp of a trillion. It had reached double-digit growth for years… If now it grows a little slower, with still volumes of 18 trillion… I believe that it will still stay our main source of welfare for the next 50 years.

Is it hard selling cashmere to Chinese costumers?

It is like selling ice to Eskimos…

How is the world geography of luxury changing?

From 2019 to 2023, almost all luxury companies saw their market value grow more than double their size. I do not understand why sometimes you hear that luxury is in a state of crisis, after such a rally. In this context, I consider even a year with 0 growth to be special.

Has this constant pursuit of growth led some companies to make mistakes?

In our listing, advisors wanted us to grow for the first three-year period by 30%. I proposed to grow by 10%. You can keep a sustained growth.. it is clear, you can do it, but on the long term a more sustainable growth is going to be better because when analysts and advisors leave you are left with something very strong. But I have always been afraid and I have never wanted to do it.

Have you ever been contacted by interested groups?

We meet other people often; I’m glad... With my family, I have made a trust so that the company is not inherited, even if I already have two daughters working with their husbands. I have thoughts about a new creative director because I’m 71 years old (he smiles. It is one of the roles he plays in the maison, ed) I work fewer hours a day, but for now I like things to be that way.

Today, what future do you see for Made in Italy?

Some Italian entrepreneurs are afraid of the generational change, others want to be open or are tired. I always thought that the enterprise should not be inherited. We are true manufacturers, the largest in the world even for our esteemed French.

What about Brunello Cucinelli’s future?

Ah, I do not know the future of Brunello Cucinelli, because I live as Marco Aurelio taught me: «Live every day as if it were your last».

The ambassador in Beijing: «On November 8, President Mattarella will come. Soon an Italian fashion day»

«It is important to revive the narrative about Italian fashion and design in China, even if we are already very popular». The words of Massimo Ambrosetti, Italian ambassador in China, who told MFF about development projects on the market. «The European commission has announced a new initiative, which was announced by Foreign Minister Antonio Tajani. The so-called general states of fashion have been convened; therefore, in all the promotional dimensions that come under Farnesina, fashion is an absolute priority».

Macroeconomic data points to a downturn that would have had a negative impact on luxury. Is luxury in China really in crisis? «I wouldn't describe it as a crisis, but for the first time in thirty years, there has been a decline in household incomes and consumption that is connected to the stock market's decline and the collapse of the housing market. Even though the Chinese are luxury-loving, they are still frugal and will continue to look for luxury that is more about design quality than price. » Made in Italy plays a part even in this situation. «This is the enormous potential of Italian-made quality, which isn't always more expensive. Additionally, through social media, e-commerce, and new spaces... We are prepared, but it's not simple. System Italy has a great deal of experience with this fully digitalized business».

Are there any new projects in the works? «Probably an Italian fashion day. Now that we have the day of the Italian sport, it will be an excellent opportunity to foster collaboration. The president of Cnmi, Carlo Capasa, will attend the third Cultural forum Italy-China on November 8th. The event will focus on the productive cultural industries with fashion at their core. The Chinese value this unique approach, which links our fashion to both culture and manufacturing skills».

Will also President Sergio Mattarella be there? «He will be. Additionally, he will close the magnificent Marco Polo exhibition in honor of the 700 years since his passing. We will also bring a restored Caravaggio and create a new exhibition showcasing Italian restoration skills». (all rights reserved)