Rewilding Chloé

The large earthen installation has a floor covered with earth, as in a South American heath. Here walk the Latin femmes imagined by Gabriela Hearst for Chloé. They are riders in leather jackets or explorers in sporty boots. From masculine outfits reminiscent of the gaucho world with boots that are a bit rodeo, precise shirts, suits with big ruffles. Mixing an ethnic feeling with handmade, but always with a great mission in mind, to take care of planet Earth. Gabriela Hearst has always been very attentive to the problems of ecology and begins a journey by citing the climax solutions, starting with Rewilding, a process that allows nature to take care of itself.

And the whole show becomes an eco-hymn, each garment starting with a solution. The use of stock materials, the sheepskin that is actually wool, the workmanship to defend sensitive craftsmanship, the images inlaid in the patterns with places in difficulty, the offsetting of carbon emissions. A soul that goes with that dress symphony that mixes a Latin character with an almost monkish cleanliness brought to mind by a special film. As we read in the show notes, the inspiration comes from Franco Zeffirelli's film Brother Sun, Sister Moon, which tells the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of ecologists.

This is no coincidence, given that the film was presented on 3 March 1972, the exact same day as the Richemont group brand's show but fifty years after its release, almost as if it were a celebration. It was also to be told with that artsy spirit of ponchos and blankets resting on one arm, with that coat with an artisanal touch worn by Amber Valletta, who closed the défilé as she did a few days ago in the Gabriela Hearst show in New York. Almost as if it were a talisman, like the magical jewels in the collection. They protect it.

Judgement. Demi Moore. Also in the front row here as at the Big Apple show a couple of weeks ago. Gabriela Hearst's fanbase is growing and seems to be very loyal. There's substance, there's attention. And there is also a great ability to tell a story. (All rights reserved)