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Italian eyewear to exceed 4 billion euros
The sector is aiming for +4-5% exports in 2022, betting on the return of buyers at MIDO, on display starting April 30 with 630 companies from 45 countries. "We expect an impact due to the energy crisis and a drop in purchases by Russians," Giovanni Vitaloni of ANFAO explained to MFF
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Tommy Hilfiger: “My Green Commitment”
«By educating future generations, we can pave the way for a better and more inclusive industry,» the designer explained to MFF. He is implementing 24 eco goals for 2030. «The Make it Possible Program is our focus,» the CEO Martijn Hagman added
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Russia-Ukraine war, three scenarios for luxury goods
MFF survey on the developments of the conflict for fashion and luxury. The hypotheses vary from the permanence of sanctions to the reaching of an agreement, with consequences ranging from a 3% drop in global sales in 2022 to a recovery in trade. Giants such as LVMH and Richemont generate less than 1% of their revenue in the former Ussr
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The metaverse to launch its first fashion week
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana confirmed to MFF they will be among the protagonists of the show line-up organized by the Decentraland platform from March 24 to March 27. «This is a new inclusive way to do fashion shows», Veronica Etro explained. Tommy Hilfiger commented, «I would have never imagined a fashion week in an entirely virtual 3D universe»
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The nature of McQueen
Sarah Burton brings Fall 2022 to New York by titling the show Mycelium, after the organ that brings nourishment to mushrooms. "I wanted to celebrate the sense of community between people and the environment," the Creative Director of the Kering brand explained to MFF. Plans include a strong development of the retail channel worldwide
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Ukraine, the fashion industry to send an SOS
MFF conducted a survey among representatives of textile-clothing, leather goods and footwear sectors. Companies are concerned not only about the export blockade but also about productive sourcing as well as the fears for counterattacks on gas from Russia
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Patrizio Bertelli: «Medium-term targets confirmed»
The CEO of the Prada group described a «very promising» start to 2022, with a gross margin of 78% expected by the end of the year. Supported by a brilliant performance in Asia, 2021 closed with revenues of 3.36 billion (+41%). Retail runs double-digit on the pre-pandemic. «With Ynap things are moving on» said Lorenzo Bertelli.
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Rosso: «Fashion to take action for Ukraine»
«The visibility of fashion can amplify aid to those in need», Otb group’s leader explained to MFF. Through his foundation, he is bringing trucks full of refugees to Italy and working with institutions for their reception. On future scenarios, he said: «May weapons be silenced. Russia absorbs 1.5% of our exports, but the government should help companies on the expensive energy cost front»
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Buyers from Paris to be optimistic
The climate of uncertainty due to the geopolitical crisis raises concerns, but orders are confirmed. Buyers interviewed by MFF mentioned Balenciaga, Valentino and Saint Laurent among the best shows, besides Chloé, Loewe, Miu Miu and Off-White tributing Abloh. Coperni and Ludovic de Saint Sernin standing out among the young ones
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Miu miu’s match point
Pleated micro skirts and polo shirts above the belly button open the show of the avant-garde label of the Prada Group, which opts for a genderless cast to tell the story of a rebellious bourgeoisie, dressed in crystal bomber jackets, tartan coats and micro shorts. On the feet, flats with leg warmers
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Vuitton’s grunge muses
Nicolas Ghesquière opens the doors of the Musée d'Orsay to the Lvmh maison for a Gen Z 3.0 featuring stripes, layering and rugby polo shirts, skirts-foulards, sweaters tight at the waist and oversized jackets. «It represents a certain stylistic idea of teenagers», the Artistic Director of women’s collections explained to MFF
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Loewe's primordial surrealism
«I liked the idea of looking at the birth of man, at the concept of evolution», Jonathan Anderson, Designer at the LVMH Maison, explained, bringing to the stage dresses with silhouettes of cars, surrealist lip-shaped busts and balloons ready to explode on bras and dresses
