Buyers from Paris to be optimistic

The Ville Lumière maintained the enthusiasm for winter 2022-2023 womenswear, which Milan had already aroused. Buyers interviewed by MFF, who promoted fashion shows, presentations and events that came back live in Paris as well, are satisfied. The top collections most applauded by buyers were three. Valentino with its total pink glamorous elegance. Saint Laurent declining a new femininity, always against the backdrop of the glittering Eiffel Tower. And Balenciaga’s very emotional show, in which Demna powerfully brought again attention to the dramatic conflict in Ukraine, affecting and involving the entire fashion system. Still in terms of shows and presentations, Chloé, Loewe, Miu Miu, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Courrèges and Off-White tributing Virgil Abloh gained strong consensus.

Others standing out include The Row, Coperni, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Botter. «In Paris we saw very strong collections. We were glad to participate again in physical shows and events, but the current political situation inevitably created a climate full of uncertainty», Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear and kidswear fashion Buying at Mytheresa, stated. “There were powerful tributes to Ukraine by Balenciaga. Dries Van Noten, The Row, Rick Owens, Miu Miu and Loewe, whose surreal set I also loved, were beautiful," Tiffany Hsu added, whose must-have is Saint Laurent’s double-breasted coat. "Milan was very directional, positive and joyful, while Paris was more eclectic in terms of mood and trends," Nathalie Lucas-Verdier, General Merchandising Director for Accessories, Hard Luxury, Shoes and Women Apparel at Printemps, explained.

"The best shows were the surreal parade of Loewe, Valentino with a moment of pure poetry and love, Miu Miu in its natural territory and the beautiful Courrèges by Nicolas di Felice. No one, however, can compete with the strength of Balenciaga: Demna translated everyone’s thought," Lucas-Verdier added, mentioning Coperni, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Minuit among the younger ones. “Valentino is the number one, with Pierpaolo Piccioli who raised the bar so high in terms of style, styling, runway, location, casting and music. Balenciaga impressed with its emotional show. Saint Laurent was stunning against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, with faux furs and beautiful coats. Chloé, Balmain and, among the debuts, Atelier Spiga 50 were beautiful. What about next winter? A total pink or black by Valentino or Saint Laurent. We confirm stable budgets," Riccardo Tortato, Head of Buying Department at TSUM Mercury Group, stated.

"Paris has raised the bar, as Milan did. Top shows such as Saint Laurent, Loewe and Valentino, as well as Chloé, The Row, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu. Balenciaga, with its tribute to Ukraine, and Off-White, with its tribute to Virgil, were touching. Coperni, Cecilie Bahnsen, Botter and Gauchere were excellent, as well as Courrèges," Federica Montelli, Head of Fashion at Rinascente, explained. "A sexy woman, with cut-outs and draping, but also very luxurious and elegant. Extreme proportions: from long coats to volumizing textures to bomber jackets and micro skirts. Lots of black, plateaux, sock boots," Montelli added. “A great return to creativity and beautiful fashion shows in attendance, unfortunately with the constant thought of the conflict in Ukraine. Top collections were Saint Laurent and the emotional Balenciaga. Valentino and Miu Miu did good, as well as Off-White for its tribute to Virgil. Among the new names, Ashlyn and Meryll Logge, finalists of the LVMH prize," Claudia Gazzelloni, Women's Buyer at Luisaviaroma, stated, indicating catsuits, balaclavas, nun head styling and couture-like dresses among the trends.

"A very positive Paris. Stunning Saint Laurent, incredible Balenciaga, beautiful Miu Miu, wonderful Valentino, super creative Loewe, excellent Coperni. The best looks were the long tweed coat by Saint Laurent and the first Miu Miu’s one with a polo shirt and a white pleated skirt. Among the must-haves, Valentino platform shoes, Miu Miu bikers, Balenciaga sack bags and Loewe bags," Gabriele Pancheri, Head of Buying at G&B store, stated. "It was gratifying to return and experience the shows live, however the backdrop of the war in Ukraine is troubling. Worth mentioning is Demna of Balenciaga, who particularly addressed the conflict. Other top brands were Saint Laurent, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Rick Owens and Monot," Heather Gramston, Head of Womenswear at Browns, commented. "On the trend front, it is hard to ignore the zeitgeist effect of the cult series Euphoria, with the cast attending the shows. Sexy remains a key theme, with lots of cut-outs and body-skimming silhouettes. Long coats, over-the-knee boots and platforms are the protagonists," Gramston added. "An intense fashion week. The best shows were Saint Laurent, Valentino, Off-White, with its tribute to Virgil, and Balenciaga, which was very impactful. Among the new names, Vaquera, Botter and Ottolinger", Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas Consulting explained, who manage the buying of 40 multi-brand brands in Italy and Europe. "As well as in Milan, the woman is very feminine and sexy: many cut-outs and dresses highlighting the shapes, vertiginous heels, super miniskirts and reduced bra. There was no lack of co-ed and genderless shows with more transversal looks," they added.

"A very good Paris. Valentino was splendid and Balenciaga was touching for the message launched. Sophisticated Saint Laurent, beautiful Chloé, extremely luxurious Hermès. Botter and Courrèges did good," Tiberio Pellegrinelli, Buying Consultant for multibrands, stated. "A very eclectic fashion week with lots of sexy and elegant looks, fitted silhouettes and colour, but also oversized jackets, pullovers and baggy pants. Mini dresses, starting from Loewe, Givenchy, Hermès, but found everywhere, are worn in the evening with tall boots, maybe from Givenchy and Isabel Marant. Lots of eco leather and eco fur. Top locations were Balenciaga and Saint Laurent," Denis V. Evstafiev, Founder of Fashionistas Concept, remarked, whose top shows were Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Loewe, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant, Koché and Coperni. It is now up to the market. (All rights reserved)