Vuitton’s grunge muses

«This is the first time a fashion show is held at the Musée d'Orsay». Nicolas Ghesquière broke the delay and after a few seasons at the Louvre, he moved across the Seine, bringing fashion right at the opposite side, in another famous parisian museum, starting a new partnership between it and the Louis Vuitton maison. Under the big clock, among paintings and white statues, the show reveals that mood «of adolescent fantasy, a certain stylistic idea of teenagers», Nicolas Ghesquière himself, artistic director of women’s collections at the Lvmh Maison, explained to MFF, «in terms of tailoring, adolescence is a time free from conformism, made of mélanges, dissonances and resonances, a succession of collages blending education, cultural references, idols, heroes and heroines, a desire to assert oneself, to forge one’s personality, to stand out, to discover and explore with a deep desire for authenticity».

Right in front of the Arnault family, the designer makes his silhouette fluid. Certainly not binary, between softness and rigour. But not simple. Knitwear suits, tops opening up with architectural wings, colours overlapping, Tirolese jackets and skirts-foulards, heavy sweaters tied at the waist over a polo shirt and baggy pants decorated with flowers. And big wraparound coats. A reminder of the freedom of today's generations, between the breath of new eastern metropolises, Shanghai and Tokyo, Netflix series and its phenomenal women like those of Euphoria, up to that world linked to music that wears images on its shirts that look like posters taken down from bedroom walls but are instead photographs by Davis Sims, his early work from the 90s. Very grunge 3.0.

«An idea of uniforms, with kilts mixed with whatever you want, like teenagers out of a boarding school claiming imagination and autonomy over what they wear. Oversized cardigans with silk pants. Demure dresses and millefeuilles of chiffon and tulle that give the silhouettes a kinetic and fleeting effect, like a mirage...». Ho-yeon, star of Squid game, opens the show in a suit and a tie. Singer Lous and the Yakuza closes it, wearing a rugby jersey over her dress. They walk on the notes by Koudlam, back to collaborate with the maison with two unreleased tracks to continue showing that touch of young coolness. «I would like people to perceive that this is a collection without constraints», the designer concluded, «which focuses on freedom of movement, ease and total comfort, even if it involves very meticulous work in terms of materials and hybridization of the clothes, as if they were born fully formed. Instinctively».

Judgment. A collection that offers a layering process of meanings. A first jolt at the feeling in person, but photogenic at a distance, becoming more interesting look after look and highlighting the detail and the search for that (apparently) naive freedom. (All rights reserved)