Miu miu’s match point

Palais d'Iena was transformed into an expanse of deckchairs decorated with paintings of imaginary animals by Swedish artists Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg. Everything is ready to witness Miu miu's match point, since the first looks of the avant-garde label of the Prada group seem to be the result of an obsession with this sport. Pleated white skirts and small polo shirts trimmed in red and blue open the scene. The sizes are very small, as if cleanly cut with scissors, and evoke the looks of s-s 2022 that have become a must for stars and influencers, who fill the front rows of the show. Sweaters with argyle patterns are combined with tweed to tell the aesthetic of a slightly rebellious middle class. The key word is girlishness.

The idea of a femininity free from gender duality led to choose a cast of different identities with lots of men. This is not a menswear branded Miu miu, the Maison explained, but the story of a genderless aesthetic. Another key concept consists in using the existing one to create the new one, a theme addressed also in last October’s show, which is precisely the starting point of a revisited and expanded creative reflection. The existing ones in this case are also the cornerstones of the Maison’s aesthetics. The flats, worn with leg warmers, the satin embossed bags, the crystals forming nets of dresses or enriching maxi leather bomber jackets with precious inserts.

They are upcycled, as well as the other leather garments in the collection, in line with the desire to reuse what is already existing. The volumes of the coats, from tartan coats to down jackets, are as exaggerated, as the size of the shorts are tiny, worn with double belts and with satin culottes emerging. As if to close a circle of citations, the jewels are also the result of the work by the duo Djurberg-Berg.

Judgment. Using the existing one to create the new one. A phrase that perfectly fits the Miu miu show. Miuccia Prada's young label draws on the best sellers of its history, remixing them to conquer today's young generation. In line with a girlish aesthetic which had already left its mark with s-s 2022. Promising to do the encore with a FW wearing flats and leg warmers and leaving the belly button uncovered. Whatever it takes. (All rights reserved)