Milan promoted by the buyers

Milano moda donna, back with live shows, met the expectations of the buyers interviewed by MFF. From the US, Europe, Russia and the Middle East, they crowded shows, presentations and events, together with press and celebrities. The FW 2022/23 collections fulfilled the desire to find new proposals that would entice customers. Budgets were reported to be increasing, even by double digits. An exhilarating atmosphere on the Fashion Week, which was nonetheless deeply affected by the conflict in Ukraine, as Carlo Capasa, President of the National Chamber for Italian Fashion (CNMI), stated (see MFF of February 25) and as Giorgio Armani expressed by choosing to parade silently. As for shows, Matthieu Blazy’s debut as Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director was a success, as well as the return to Milan of Gucci and its collaboration with Adidas. The duo Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons for Prada continues to reap success. Versace, Dolce&Gabbana and Jil Sander received significant approval too, while Palm Angels, Marco Rambaldi, Andreadamo and Miss Sohee stood out among the younger names. "Strong energy, creativity at its best, with all the big names there. Fantastic and powerful Prada. Enthusiastic and super promising Bottega Veneta. Versace’s contagious vitality and perfect move by Gucci towards hypebeasts," Nathalie Lucas-Verdier, General Merchandise Director for Accessories, Hard Luxury, Shoes and Women Apparel of Printemps, stated.

"In the foreground there are sensuality and glamour with lingerie, corsets, tight waists. Strong cuts and powerful shoulders. The 90s-2000s vibes dominate. The best items are a power jacket and a tank top by Prada, shoes by Bottega and a Guccididas cap," Lucas-Verdier added. "Coming back live was a victory. Lots of great shows, strong commitment from designers for collections you would already wear and that customers will like," Federica Montelli, Head of Fashion at Rinascente, explained. “Top for Prada, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Versace and Jil Sander. Excellent results for Sportmax, Sunnei, Palm Angels and GCDC. Glenn Martens’ first live show for Diesel was good. Great start for Trussardi. Among the younger ones, Marco Rambaldi, Ambush and Andreadamo," Montelli added. "For the coming winter there will be lots of sparkle, mini proportions for dresses and skirts, super shoulders for coats and blazers and bustiers and cut-outs in abundance. Platform shoes, as well as cuissardes and bags from Bottega," Montelli pointed out.

"We are grateful to be back in Milan and experience the boundless creativity of designers. Sure, the mood is sombre, thinking about our friends in Ukraine and Russia," Heather Gramston, Head of womenswear at Browns, stated. "Jil Sander is among my favourites with her suits. Overall, sexy dressing remains the star and it is great to see it evolving in a more inclusive way. The Prada logo plaque is a must have," Gramston added. "A strong, positive mood with very sexy looks and emphasis on shoulders. Bottega Veneta was amazing: from tailoring to eclectic knitwear, from leather garments to tall boots. Prada mixed past reminiscences and new pieces that will conquer magazine covers. The jackets with feathers were incredible. I have to mention Versace with its oversize satin topcoats matched with low-waisted pants, as well as platform boots. Among new brands, Miss Sohee is worth a mention," Tiffany Hsu, Vice President womenswear and kidswear fashion buying at Mytheresa, explained.

"I am happy to have rediscovered pre-Covid-19 Milan, with so much enthusiasm and a good atmosphere, talking of course about Fashion Week. I really liked Gucci, Jil Sander was splendid, Versace was beautiful as well and, among young people, I have to mention Del Core. Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton and Santoni were the best presentations. Key trend was the lingerie that comes out. Jimmy Choo’s pink boots are worth a mention," Riccardo Tortato, Head of Buying Department at TsUM - Mercury Group, explained. "Between joy and fear, Milan returns to be a great fashion capital. Elegance, rigor, strong masculine and feminine aesthetics at Prada. Exquisite Gucci: different, new, but always with the identity of the great Alessandro Michele. The collaboration with Adidas was very interesting. Modern vision and sartorial elegance by Capasa Milano. The silence at the Giorgio Armani fashion show was emotional. Joy and optimism for Etro," Sugar’s Beppe Angiolini stated. "It is a positive Milan. We are increasing budgets," Verso’s Luc Dheedene assured.

"A lively Fashion Week, under the banner of a glamorous woman. A femininity enhanced by the games of see-through and cut-out, with statement outerwear, short skirts, small tops and high heels. The season promises to be important for physical and online sales as our clients increase their budgets by double digits," PLAS Consulting’s Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi stated, who manage the buying of 40 multibrand brands in Italy and Europe, whose best shows are Prada, Versace, Dolce&Gabbana and Bottega Veneta, with the positive return to Milan of Gucci and Palm Angels. Ferrari also did well. "A great Milan with a strong appeal and many beautiful proposals, despite the not so rosy period. Prada, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Gucci and Jil Sander proposed top collections. Among the younger generation, Marco Rambaldi, Cormio, Andreadamo and Quira are worth a mention," Gabriele Pancheri, Head of Buying at G&B store, explained.

"Best looks: the tank top and skirt with lace inlays by Prada, the blue suit by Gucci, the purple leather skirt with bangs underneath and the knit by Bottega Veneta and the white coat by Jil Sander. Excellent platform shoes by Versace, woven boots and bags by Bottega and bags by Prada," Pancheri added. "Creativity and ferment in Milan, with many buyers intent on buying. Prada, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Dolce&Gabbana and Tod's put on great shows. Among the young ones, Andreadamo and the return of Balestra are worth a mention. In addition to the shoulders clou, a lot of vinyl and eco-fur, with black dominating", Tiberio Pellegrinelli, Buying Consultant for multibrands, commented. Now it is up to Paris. (All rights reserved)