Long live the Quinn

After four days of a not so busy schedule, the curtain fell on the London fashion week. Without big names such as Jonathan Anderson, Victoria Beckham and above all Burberry, which will however have a fashion show in the city on March 11 (see MFF of February 18, 2022), press and buyers focused on the hot names emerged in the last ten years. Among them, Richard Quinn received the palm. «I designed silhouettes to defend us from the attacks of today's life», the creative awarded by Queen Elizabeth in 2018 explained to MFF. Showing outfits between fetish and couture around a large orchestra. The set is a large hall with an orchestra of 40 musicians in its centre surrounded by flowers. The director gives the start and Samuel Barber's Adagio for strings begins. A bronze door opens and Richard Quinn's show for Fall 2022 starts, with strong couture touches.

«I wanted live orchestra and choir because I love music. I used to play cello but I stopped a while ago». The first outfits are almost tributes to the new look’s Dior, women in eighteenth-century skirts as if dressed in floral tapestry with large hat boxes. Then there is a mix of variations on the classics made dystopian by exaggerated silhouettes. The collar of the trench coat fastens above the head. Wide-brimmed hats have two portholes for the eyes and cover the face like masks. There are also perfect outfits for Islamic women or even fetish outfits in latex. With styling by Katie Grand and the best ones on her staff like Brian Conway, the show is super sleek.

Judgment. «I wanted armours to defend us from today's world», the designer explained to MFF backstage. Anna Wintour not only sits in the front row and applauds, but she is also the first one to greet him. He is wearing a baseball cap and shorts as if he was working in a garden. The iconic elements of his style are all there and he confirms himself among the hot tickets in the British capital. (All rights reserved)

«The whole British fashion industry has suffered after Covid-19 and there are many challenges. However, the real challenge remains Brexit. We need to make sure the government is there to support us». These were the words of Caroline Rush, ceo of the Bfc-British fashion council, who MFF met at Browns, the specialty store now part of Farfetch. Before Covid, the British fashion industry directly contributed 35 billion pounds (about 41.8 billion euros) to the UK's Gdp, with about 900,000 people employed by the sector. The supply chain and logistics have experienced significant difficulties due to Brexit, while the increase in energy costs, according to the Ons-Office of national statistics, could push inflation up to 8% between March and April.

What does the British fashion industry need after Covid-19?
The whole fashion industry has suffered after Covid-19 and there are many challenges. However, the real challenge remains Brexit. We need to make sure that the government is there to support us. Then the real support we need is on the sustainability of our industry and the whole British ecosystem. That is the real focus.

What do you draw from this London Fashion Week?
It is so exciting to get back to physical events for a fashion week, with the public in attendance. We saw a lot of creativity and that is why people and designers want to come to London.

How will LFW evolve in the coming months?
I think there will be a lot of energy. It is an energy that you can find in the collections, in the shows, and then there will be a lot of collaborations, for example with the world of music, and a lot of experimentation. I think that is what this city is all about. The diversity of the collections is what makes it so exciting. (All rights reserved)