Wales Bonner's artisanal melting pot

The colonnade of Palazzo Medici Riccardi was contaminated with elements borrowed from Afro-Atlantic culture in a scenic melting pot. Indeed, a monumental installation by Ghanaian artist Ibrahim Mahama was covering the entire fashion show space. Burlap sacks sourced from coffee farms in the African country and hand-sewn by local collaborators became the path leading into the world of Grace Wales Bonner. The British designer, special guest of the first day of Pitti Immagine Uomo, left her distinct mark with the first Italian show of the Wales Bonner label.

A co-ed collection of 36 looks for SS 2023, designed as a celebration of artisanship in all its forms. «I was inspired by the Black tradition of Florence, which is closely linked to this palace commissioned by Cosimo de' Medici, who over the years hosted delegations from all over the world in a spectacular mix of cultures and commerce, building Italy’s Renaissance. I mixed these elements with technology and the present,» the designer, who amalgamated handmade garments and accessories from various parts of the world in her fashion show, explained.

The incipit celebrated the Black characters' faces painted on T-shirts by artist Kerry James Marshall. A mix of tailoring and sportswear that encapsulates the soul of Grace Wales Bonner's own work, who first likes to call herself a designer making art, amidst tuxedos and coats made by Savile Row Anderson & Sheppard tailoring, marathon wear of a futuristic silver or hand-painted leather football boots, resulting from the ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals.

Ceremonial elements from the Medici wardrobe were deconstructed to give life to undone silk shirts, hand dyed jumpsuits, organic cotton uniforms and jacquards designed by Charvet in Paris, while much of the garments were made in Italy. «The Medici were also patrons of artists, therefore I wanted to celebrate artisanship in all its forms,» Wales Bonner explained. «For example, I have been to Ghana where there are artisans who are able to transform and recycle glass. Their work was used to create the jewelry in the collection».

Music remixed by James William Blades, mixing the noise of a marketplace within the palace garden, chamber music from Mali's kora and further contributions from American musician Chino Amobi and South African sound artist Philip Miller helped create this link between past and present, vibrating through every outfit in the collection in a scenic crescendo.

Judgment. Grace Wales Bonner's fresh look and multicultural perspective baptized the start of the 102nd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo with positive energy. A beautiful celebration of artisanship between Made in Italy and Made all over the world, a mirror of today. (All rights reserved)