Victoria Beckham’s tailoring

«For this Paris show, I wanted to present something special. I am thrilled to be here». This is how Victoria Beckham recounted her expectations for her debut in France in a preview of her atelier in rue de Richelieu. The show was held in the cloister of the Val de Grace church, a monumental temple reminiscent of Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Anna Wintour talks with Brooklyn Beckham and Nicola Peltz while leaning against a column. The show starts. The silhouettes highlight Victoria Beckham’s obsessions: men tailoring built around soft and sensual dresses, reminiscent of lingerie and aware of the body. Both are synonymous with poise and confidence, and convey an air of self-assurance, albeit in polar opposite ways. Dichotomies animate the collection, which moves between soft and hard, structured and fluid. The suit is celebrated as an expression of femininity. Biased and spiral cuts explore a softness and a strength evoked through delicacy. Tailoring is deconstructed, cut away to reveal the inner construction of the pieces, along with the body itself. With a simple reduction, the garments are transformed. Sensuality is evoked through fabrics and cuts that tenderly hold the body, as well as through trompe l'oeil prints and collage techniques, which leave memories of sartorial details traced in an almost surrealist game.

Judgment. Bend it like Beckham. Victoria, of course. The show confirms the talent of the former Spice Girl. There is a playful sensuality: kinetic tassels of fringe animate succinct silhouettes and kinky latex underlies chiffon. It would not be Paris if silk jersey did not curl to form a heart. (All rights reserved)