EnglishTory Burch’s imperfect muses
«Women are not interested in rules. We challenged the perception of beauty and femininity». Exposed lingerie and raw hems, cut and etched logos and inside-out effects for the US designer who imagines an undone wardrobe, parading under maxi projections of the Venus de Milo
«We wanted to challenge the perception of beauty and femininity and we broke down the traditional wardrobe and rebuilt it with an undone attitude». This is how Tory Burch describes her girls walking down the runway in a room full of maxi projections of the Venus de Milo, a testament to the beauty of imperfection and things that last over time. The Us designer has decided to carry on with that message she already launched with the spring-summer 2023 collection.
«Women are not interested in rules and each piece is designed to be endlessly mixed and overlapped», the designer added, even though she has ensured herself with two women of acclaimed beauty, Irina Shayk and Emily Ratajkowski, who closed the show. They certainly do not need superstructures to express themselves, that is the mantra for a collection that marries the art of the undefined, the unmade, with raw cuts for hems with small, imprecise threads. Inside-out effects bring into view elements that are usually concealed under clothing, such as lingerie, as giant safety pins tighten the waist of skirts slightly crooked in their portfolio closure. The details break the surface of perfections, such as an intentionally chipped heel, men’s sweater sleeves repaid differently, or the logo being cut and etched.
Judgment. That apparent simplicity that is the natural makeup is both the hardest thing to achieve but also an accomplishment. With a wardrobe made of evergreen pieces that will live forever and will be handed down, they are cocoon and very American. It is kind of the subtle appeal of middle-class New York, who then, in fact, lives in the gilded and precious uptown. (All rights reserved)