Thom Browne to bet on Italy

The determined push on womenswear, leading to the inauguration of a dedicated boutique in Milan, the strengthening of the distribution network and an important anniversary just around the corner. The 20 years since the creation of the first ready-to-wear collection will be celebrated in grand style in 2023. Thom Browne has big plans coming, boosted by having closed 2021 with sales of 263 million euros, up 47% compared to 2020. The Zegna group’s brand, managed by the homonymous designer, does not stop its race. This is demonstrated by the opening last September of the first Milanese boutique entirely dedicated to women, the second in the world after the one in London. Located in Via Sant'Andrea 11, in the former Agnona store, the space covers an area of 158 square meters on two floors, designed by architect Flavio Albanese of Asa Studio Albanese in line with Browne's new New York townhouse. An investment confirming Italy’s importance for the brand, as Rodrigo Bazan, ceo of Thom Browne, explained to MFF.

What is the reason for this investment on womenswear?

Womenswear was launched in 2014. Since 2016, we chose specifically to invest in the segment that was supposed to mirror the same aesthetic universe of menswear, insisting a lot on fashion shows as well. We were in Paris and from there the product offering started to grow and define itself. We are very happy with that. Last year there were two opportunities to open dedicated stores in London and Milan where we already had an established customer base. London opened in March 2021, Milan in September.

Why Italy?

We strongly believe in this market. We are presenting all the collections here in our Milan showroom. Thom has always had a close connection with this country, we are in the 40 best local multibrand stores and on the occasion of the Salone del mobile 2017 we opened just in Milan our first monobrand store dedicated to men. It should also be highlighted that this is the only Thom Browne store in the world on a main street of luxury shopping. We find the dynamics of Sant'Andrea very interesting. Moreover, the brand immediately focused on quality by producing here. Thom also made fashion shows in Florence, during Pitti Uomo, and several times in Milan with Moncler.

How much does womenswear weigh on your revenues?

It is very important, it is about a third of sales (28%) compared to 10% in 2016, when we started pushing on it. In some markets it is even stronger. The best performances were in Italy, America, Korea and China. At some point there will be a natural balancing of the menswear and womenswear business.

How is the distribution network of the brand evolving?

It is distributed in about 350 wholesale stores around the world. From 14 stores in 2016 (4 direct ones and 10 franchises) now we count 52 direct stores and 38 franchises. Rather than focusing on volumes, we want to be present in a balanced way with all the product categories.

What are the best performing products?

We have a very important tailoring business but also outerwear, coats, knitwear, shirts, and a contribution that is starting to be interesting is that of accessories. This store is also home to fragrances, developed in a direct-to-consumer formula. Children's clothing, launched last year, is also doing very well.

Why did you make the decision to do the fashion show on April 29 in New York?

We have a connection with the Met exhibition of which Thom Browne is enormously proud and supportive (see MFF of January 27, 2022). The timing is also interesting because there is still a lot of Covid going around and any show now would be limited in terms of traffic. Thom finds the Cfda-Council of fashion designers of america's statement, in support of American designers putting on shows around the world and outside of the official NYFW’s calendar, very positive.

Will you return to Paris with a show?

Absolutely, as soon as possible. We still have our showroom in Paris.

What about Milan?

Milan has been our base throughout the lockdown. Covid allowed us to start a very important revolution and we decided to locate the management of the sample collection and sales here.

How did business go during Covid?

We are happy with how we worked as a team along with shareholders, employees, landlords and manufacturers. We did not fire any employees, we never cancelled a production order and there was robust growth even during the most challenging time. It certainly paid off for the work done in previous years on the brand. There is particularly good business in North America, in Europe, especially Italy and England, as well as in Asia. This balanced distribution of sales allowed us to always have an active region of the world and this gave us confidence. In 2020/2021, we continued to open stores, modernize our approach to wholesale... It has created a great sense of community and internal work.

What do you see in the future?

In 2023, the brand's 20-year anniversary will be celebrated and there will be some major announcements about that. The future goal is to expand brand awareness without ever losing sight of the original customer. Our product is long lasting and timeless. We want to establish great loyalty with the existing customers, rather than necessarily finding new ones. Other direct-to-consumer projects are in sight and we will push on retail in important markets with the support of the Zegna Group, which has always supported us and understands the brand in depth. (All rights reserved)