The stream of consciousness according to Ann Demeulemeester

A long white catwalk projected into the center of Stazione Leopolda. Light illuminating it, letting clouds of smoke rise, like a fog confusing the step. All around the darkness of this mysterious space enclosing, in an emotional journey, the creative path of Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester, guest of honor at the 102nd edition of Pitti immagine uomo. 2022 will mark the 40th anniversary of the brand she founded and brought to the catwalks of Paris together with her husband Patrick Robyn, and there could be no better occasion to celebrate an out-of-the-box creative path, detached from any trend, which was also able to create a new fashion concept, a unicum. Today, thanks to the contribution of Claudio Antonioli, who acquired the label through his holding company in 2020, it comes back to life.

Six outfits from the new course completed the visual path of the entire exhibition, which was meticulously constructed, piece by piece, by the creative herself in an emotional journey through the label's history. While 40 outfits told its past, from 1992 to the present. "I wanted to carefully select even the music," Ann Demeulemeester herself explained to MFF. «It all starts with the soundtrack of my first show. They seem to be randomly mixed elements, when in fact there is a continuity that builds a unique stream of consciousness».

What was the common thread of your work for this exhibition?
What I like. I selected the outfits totally relying on my feelings, I chose them as if I were talking to friends. I made a book with some of my outfits (with an introduction by Patty Smith, ed.) and from there I chose the ones that struck me the most. I put them together, completely abandoning myself to instinct.

How did you feel when you saw all the outfits next to each other in this display?
It really was a great emotion. This project encompasses years and years of work, and what struck me the most was that the outfits put together draw a single line, they seem to be one collection. This aspect really amazed me. The past, the present and the future could be together on the same stage, managing to represent Ann Demeulemeester's style. There are very different collections, but they coexist with the same personality, they have a common history, they represent one world. I am really happy to have achieved such a result.

This reflects the consistency of your style...
When I started my career in fashion, I was not interested in what the trends were, in what was in or out. I did not care. I wanted to create something that was not there yet, a new style, a new identity, something I wanted to have for myself as well.

And how did people respond to that?
I found many friends through my work. There were women who would say to me, this is great, thank you for what you do, I want this or that...

From your point of view, how has fashion changed over the years?
I have always been myself, I have never followed trends, I have never followed fashion so I cannot even tell how it has changed over the years.

Do you think you have influenced the younger generation?
I can only hope that I have inspired the next generation of designers. There is no generation gap between me and young people. I love young people. I think it is extraordinary today to have this kind of sharing. When I was a young girl, my grandmother represented just another era, I could not talk to her. Now all generations live together, and I like to inspire them and be able to have a dialogue with them.

Claudio Antonioli is doing a very respectful job on your label. What do you see in the Ann Demeulemeester label’s future?
I do not have a crystal ball but what I can say is that I have known Claudio for a very long time, and it is beautiful to see how his intentions manifest a willingness to really invest in this brand and guide it into the future. I am truly grateful towards him for everything he is doing. He will take care of my child who has grown up and must walk his own path to move forward, to build a future. It is great because now there is a future for the brand and all this work will not be lost.

Is this your first time at Pitti?
Yes, I had never been. I think I was asked for at least 20 years, but I always said I did not have time, I had to work and finish the collection... Now I do have the time. (All rights reserved)