The New Gucci

The double-G was certainly the most popular attraction in Milan fashion week. However, what about Sabato De Sarno’s first collection? «It was splendid, but I already knew that. I just enjoy saying it,» Pierpaolo Piccioli stated while smiling in the front row at the Gucci fashion show, as he spoke about the Kering Group’s fashion house’s new direction. A new era has been ushered in by De Sarno, who previously worked for Valentino. The event took place in the Gucci Hub on Via Mecenate, which was illuminated with “Ancora Red” lights. Maxi posters displaying this color flooded the walls of half of the world, providing a preview of the collection. This is the Neapolitan Designer’s initial chromatic obsession, named after a middle ground between a brick hue with cardinal depth and sanguine.

«The color was inspired by the Savoy Hotel in London, where Guccio Gucci once worked, and can also be found in the rooms of Gucci’s palaces» Sabato De Sarno explained to MFF during the launch of the book Prospettive 1 in Brera, a part of Milan known for its rich cultural heritage. The show was originally planned to be staged outdoors there, but was moved indoors due to weather concerns. However, the stage remains crisp and quickly fills with precise and distinctive silhouettes that honor Valentino’s couture history. For a wardrobe with clean, defined lines and minimal frills, incorporating a figure without excess. Anna Dello Russo, the iconic Italian stylist, advocated for ultra-modern, abbreviated cuts that create a «young and cool» aesthetic.

Between a few 90s-inspired pieces, like the bling-bling tops mixed with Gucci and Tom Ford denim, to the combination of gymnastic sweaters and fancy skirts, the collection features a clear shift towards a cleaner, less theatrical aesthetic compared to Alessandro Michele’s previous works. It was evident that the message desired to a more straightforward approach without any hidden secrets. De Sarno’s new dessous collection features a stylish combination of centered logos, shiny and opaque contrasts, and a play on lace and coatings. From micro-tops embroidered with shorts to knitted jumpsuits, mixed with accessories that arouse desire. Starting with the reinterpretation of classics such as the Jackie or the Bamboo bags, and the new platform loafers. Seventy and seventeen. With a soundtrack that embeds Mina’s voice in Ancora, of course.

Judgement. The customers are satisfied, as they appreciate the updated accessories and more understated clothing options. The use of vibrant colors, reflective materials, and flowing silhouettes seen during the live show give the impression that the collection would have been better suited for presentation on the streets of Brera in a more realistic setting, rather than using a traditional runway, which may have detracted from the overall impact. If the goal was to make the whole look cleaner, it has already been achieved, thanks to the precise couture soul that the Designer seems to know inside out. Sabato De Sarno has seen and absorbed a lot during his career, and he certainly knows how to do it well. It will be interesting to see if his speed will also allow him to be more decisive in his work. No half measures. Ancora, more, Gucci. (All rights reserved)