Stone Island’s challenge

«Today marks the beginning of a new chapter for Stone Island» Robert Triefus, who has been ceo of the 400-million-revenue brand founded in 1982 by Massimo Osti and controlled by Moncler group since last June (see MFF of May 4), comments, anticipating to MFF the meaning of the brand’s debut in the Milan Men’s fashion Week.

«Tonight, approximately 50 men will showcase our fall-winter 2024/25 collection in a large industrial space in the Certosa district. However, it will not be a traditional fashion show but rather a grand performance with an important Dj set». Furthermore, he adds, «Milan Men’s Fashion Week provides the perfect platform to bring our community together and share the brand’s new Manifesto, which emphasizes the uniqueness of its heritage, values, and mission».

In the first nine months of 2023, Stone Island generated 310 million euros in revenue, a 2% increase. In the third quarter alone, revenues reached 108 million, in line with the results achieved in 2022. Stone Island became part of Remo Ruffini’s realm through a 1.15-billion-euro deal signed at the end of 2020 (see MFF of December 7, 2020). The market praised the deal, acknowledging it not only as the union of two brands but also of two innovators, Remo Ruffini and Carlo Rivetti. «Today’s event is a one-shot. We will not be present in June, but we will be showcasing our collections in settings beyond fashion weeks» Robert Triefus, who joined Stone Island after spending the last 15 years of his career at Gucci and prior to that at Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein, continues. «We will certainly continue to unveil our Prototype capsules at the Salone del mobile in Milan in April. Moreover, in October 2023, we signed a two-year partnership with Frieze, the major art event born in London that now has three additional stops in New York, Los Angeles, and Seoul». The revenue targets remain under wraps, but the strategy is clear: consolidate the brand’s strong values without haste, following in the footsteps of Carlo Rivetti’s 40-year approach and Remo Ruffini’s strategy for Moncler.

Why did you decide to present your Manifesto during Milan Fashion Week?

We saw a significant opportunity to bring our community together. Milan Men’s Fashion Week provides the perfect platform to bring our community together and share the brand’s new Manifesto, which emphasizes the uniqueness of its heritage, values, and mission.

Who created the collection we will see tonight? Will you introduce a new creative director?

Stone Island has opted not to have a creative director. Instead, it has a very tight-knit design team led by Silvio Rivetti, the son of our President Carlo. The collection reimagines iconic pieces while always focusing on extensive research into technical innovation.

Will you also launch special collaborations with designers and artists similar to Moncler Genius?

Moncler Genius is a unique and original formula. Our strategy now focuses on strengthening our brand’s identity. An example is the advertising campaign we will unveil today, which draws inspiration from campaigns originating from Sabina Rivetti’s vision from 2007, but that have been interpreted by 16 different figures from our community, including artists, sports figures such as Pep Guardiola, or singers like Drake, who helped launch the brand in the US.

What are the standout looks that you will reveal tonight?

One standout piece is a silver metal mesh puffer jacket made with PVD nanotechnology. It has a liquid glass effect, created by two layers of organza with a high-resistance nylon base. Nanotechnology is used to infuse aluminum into the polyester organza, attracting the metal to the yarn. Layered together, they create an optical effect, making the jacket appear like pure liquid. Additionally, a parka and two hooded jackets made of polyester mesh and protected by a semi-glossy transparent polyurethane film, moderately windproof and rain-resistant.

The shift in distribution under your control began even before your arrival, with over 70 direct stores. What is the current status?

Japan and Korea were the initial markets. Asia is, of course, a very important region. Having direct control over distribution was a critical step. In December, the Chinese market also came on board, which is, of course, fundamental. I would say we are progressing well.

How far along are you with the new store concept?

We commissioned renowned architect Rem Koolhaas and his firm, Amo/Oma, to design it. In October, we inaugurated the very first space in Chicago, followed by Stockholm and Munich. The new concept features altar-like spaces highlighting Stone Island’s constant technological exploration, shared by our community. Niches for archive pieces and prototypes, the results of years of experimentation in Stone Island’s laboratory at our headquarters in Ravarino, showcase our dna, which is closer to the industrial design of other brands from the Region of Emilia, such as Ferrari and Lamborghini, or other iconic brands in advanced tech research.

Since you will not be attending the June fashion week, when will you present the other collections?

We will certainly continue to unveil our Prototype capsules at the Salone del Mobile in Milan in April. Moreover, in October 2023, we signed a two-year partnership with Frieze, the major art event born in London, that now has three additional stops in New York, Los Angeles, and Seoul. (All rights reserved)