Stella McCartney urges for a sustainable fashion industry at Cop28

Fashion is making its voice heard at Cop28. The Un-United nations climate conference in Dubai has opened its doors to the fashion system, beginning with Stella McCartney, whose brand has championed sustainability. To highlight her commitment to being eco-friendly, the British designer, a true pioneer, brought a setup resembling the one she presented at the summer 2024 fashion show in Paris. Until December 12th, benches resembling those of a marketplace will display outcomes from 15 innovators, some of whom are collaborating with Lvmh’s brands, including Mirum, Keel labs, Veuve Clicquot, Nativa, and Soktas, while others are in the research and development stage, such as Protein evolution, Biofluff, and Mango materials. A public display showcasing advancements in one of the most environmentally damaging industries on the planet to inform consumers, as explained by Stella McCartney to MFF.

Your company is a fashion representative at Cop28. Are you proud to serve as an example to such a vast audience?

After attending Cop26 in Glasgow a few years ago and observing the fashion industry’s inadequate representation, despite being one of the world’s most polluting industries, I eagerly awaited attending Cop28 to demonstrate the significant strides made in a brief period and emphasize the potential future if governments start taking the fashion industry seriously. I am honored to attend as a representative of the fashion industry once again, emphasizing its vital role in sustainability and the pressing need to shift towards more eco-friendly practices. I aim to meet with proponents of genuine change and actively contribute to advancing this discussion. It is widely recognized that fashion ranks among the planet’s most polluting industries. The absence of industry representatives and the lack of focus on fashion-related matters on the official Cop agenda suggests that significant progress is still necessary before governments and brands fully recognize the industry’s actual effects and contributions to the planet. My participation indicates my sense of responsibility and willingness to engage in the creation of innovative and effective solutions to lessen the effects of climate change. I had a successful trip and eagerly anticipate the outcomes of the discussions that were held.

What is the primary action that the public must take to promote the climate agenda?

From the beginning, animal welfare has guided both my personal life choices and my brand vision. The realization truly came to me 17 years ago when I connected my philosophy with the impact animal agriculture has on the environment after reading the Un’s Long Shadow report on livestock. Fashion is one of the most harmful industries for the planet. Animal agriculture accounts for 14.5% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions, surpassing the emissions of the transportation industry (13%). This is where leather comes from. Leather production contributes to rainforest destruction through the creation of land for livestock and the release of up to 300 kilograms of toxic chemicals into the environment, contaminating local water systems. Tanning leather also involves the use of carcinogenic chemicals, which shorten the lives of farmers, particularly in underprivileged countries, and are harmful at every stage. Over one billion animals are slaughtered each year for leather production in the fashion industry. Therefore, it is crucial for public, companies, and governments to shift their attention towards the impact of animal agriculture on the environment and industry. Companies should avoid using harmful materials and methods that endanger animals and workers. We must be innovative and creative with alternative materials, beyond those traditionally used by industry, to conduct business in a way that regenerates our planet instead of depleting it. Collaboration towards these goals will make this possible. The public has a fundamental role to play, demanding transparency and accountability from both brands and governments. Simultaneously, governments should create incentives for companies to practice more sustainable methods. For instance, my brand faces up to a 30% tax when importing our vegan leather alternatives to the US. This tax is a direct consequence of the leather industry’s lobbying efforts, contradicting our common objectives of combating climate change and safeguarding the planet for future generations.

Why did you decide to enter the sustainable market?

Materials innovation solutions that positively impact the climate have been a major focus for us over the last few years, as well as through my work with the SOS Fund, my materials innovation investment fund. Therefore, it is the opportune moment to present these remarkable partners through the format we introduced during the Summer 2024 Fashion Show in Paris in October. At COP, we partnered with Lvmh to host «Stella’s Sustainable Market: Innovating Tomorrow’s Solutions», an exhibition showcasing our significant progress in materials innovation. The event features 15 fashion startups presenting their innovative materials to the public. I want to highlight our dedication to eco-friendly initiatives and sustainable innovation. Our goal is to showcase not only to industry and government leaders, but also to our consumers and the global community that a brighter future is possible by conducting business in a way that is kind to Mother Nature. The innovators are leading the market, and their vision inspires and motivates us tremendously. It is all about our team and company, showcasing what we have accomplished and what we strive to achieve at COP, which represents the future of fashion. Our focus is on creativity, innovation, and unique perspectives, which we hope will have a lasting impact.

What are the most impressive innovations you have presented?

Currently, I am thrilled about two experiments: revolutionary textile recycling and the potential to generate new materials by directly removing greenhouse gases from the air. Technologies are emerging to break down used garments into basic fibers for reuse in creating high-quality textiles. I invest in Protein Evolution through both my brand and SOS Fund, alongside other sustainable options such as Brimstone and Pure.Tech, which can capture greenhouse gases as materials. Circular approaches can significantly reduce waste, demand for virgin materials, and foster a new form of sustainable business critical to our survival.

What about the partnership with Veuve Clicquot?

I am thrilled to be a part of this collaboration between a fashion house and a champagne house, joined by our mutual interests in sustainability, craftsmanship, and innovation. This venture seamlessly integrates my vision for cruelty-free design with Veuve Clicquot’s superb natural ingredients, repurposing waste to produce a luxury substitute for animal leather. It is difficult to discern this leather-like material derived from grapes from real leather. Both companies were established by pioneering women, who transformed and led change in their respective industries, leaving behind legacies grounded in skill, devotion, and innovations that opened up new and improved opportunities. Stella McCartney’s commitment to cruelty-free and sustainable alternatives has inspired individuals and companies both inside and outside the fashion industry. With an unwavering dedication to never use leather or fur, our influence has led the way in promoting ethical practices. Similarly, Madame Clicquot’s contributions to the champagne industry through the invention of the remuage technique and modern bottle shape have created a lasting impact. Her innovations revolutionized the industry and are still in use today.

You announced new projects and commitments. Could you please elaborate on the key ones?

I intend to carry forward the discussions initiated during COP. My goal is to persist in driving change. This is not an isolated event for me that I would attend and forget once I leave Dubai. My goal is to create practical frameworks, policies, and partnerships that significantly diminish the detrimental impact of business on the environment. I believe I can contribute to achieving this objective within the fashion industry and beyond. My vision is for all industries to operate using environmentally-friendly methods in unison. This week, we released our Impact Report 2023, which outlines our accomplishments in the 2022 calendar year. Our commitment to innovation and reducing reliance on fossil fuels in the materials and processes used in the production, sale, and end-of-life of all Stella McCartney products is being renewed. We are partnering with Mango Materials and AirCarbon to develop new innovations and materials using greenhouse gas emissions. We are soon releasing the 2024 Circular Design Guide to share knowledge, principles, and guidelines on sustainable and circular design and materials in all sectors. Climate responsibility lies with the companies, making this a crucial topic. Furthermore, we are partnering with Peta-People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals for an innovation campaign aimed at promoting alternative and innovative materials for upholstery, leather, fur, and feathers.

When can you achieve a 100% sustainable collection goal?

I aim to alter the current conventional situations in my industry. I am thrilled about this, but it is also highly challenging. I am determined to be more conscious and responsible and to have a modern approach. There are numerous constraints that hinder progress, including government policies that require immediate attention. I do not charge my clients for fair pay, instead, I incorporate it into my margins. I prioritize quality and fairness, knowing that when we pay our workers fairly, our prices may increase, but we take this hit to hold true to our values. Additionally, adopting a circular approach is critical. It opens new avenues to reevaluate manufacturing processes, products, technology, consumption and waste management and supports the development of new economic activities while generating job opportunities. The current textile system works in an almost completely linear way. We must at least aim to make it circular! We will evolve toward eliminating the use of raw materials, looking at old mass-produced textiles, revisiting favorites and our brand’s creative dna to create something new and unexpected. (All rights reserved)