Silvia Venturini Fendi: «The Baguette was born from an astral conjunction»

Since its invention in 1997, more than a thousand models have been created. «At that time, we did not even have a marketing division, all before Lvmh. The stars aligned that day,» Silvia Venturini Fendi told MFF. And she added, «Madonna immediately bought one in Rome. They called me, but I am shy and did not go down and talk to her». For the 25th anniversary of the Baguette, the it-bag that Karl Lagerfeld thought was worth «beaucoup des diamants,» the fashion house organized a maxi show during New York fashion week. An anniversary celebrated with a creative jubilation that featured collaborations by Marc Jacobs, Tiffany, Porter and Sarah Jessica Parker.

When did you realize that the Baguette was not just a pretty bag, but so much more?

Right away I knew because I was so sure of the attitude of this short shoulder strap, the fact that it was soft, that it could be part of your body because it sits, you carry it under your arm. It protects you and you protect it. The American market agreed with me right away, whereas the Japanese market did not. I remember I had to force myself on the buyers to get them to buy it, there was almost a battle. They told me, «Japanese customers do not buy that many Baguettes,» and I went down to the showroom and I remember spending a whole evening with the Baguettes all put on the floor saying: «Take this one, then this one and put it on during the day and wear this one like this,» to make them understand that it was not an evening bag since for them it was a bag to put on their arm. They took a few, but when they arrived the President of Japan called me and said, «Send us more Baguettes right away». The American market understood immediately and then very soon people who have antennae understood too. Madonna, for example, was shopping during a stay in Rome and bought a Baguette. They called me but I am shy and did not go down and talk to her.

And then Sex and the City...

Yes, and then Sex and the City. In fact, Sarah Jessica Parker could not miss it because she has been fundamental. Besides the fact that I love that show, in my opinion it is a story that was important to us women. That phrase, «it is not a bag, it is a Baguette,» perfectly represents what this bag is, its strength, identity and personality.

If you were to go through them quickly, that is, from your first memory to your last, or even randomly, what does that name say to you now?

For me, the Baguette has also been fundamental to my personal story, not only to Fendi's. Because being a «child of» always leads you to misunderstandings. Also, this bag has continued to be important over the years, so the most difficult thing is to protect the product and then make it iconic. That is also an alchemical work, not only to have a bag that is considered an it-bag, that is a matter that goes beyond alchemy. Really, it is something that can happen once. Actually, for us it has happened twice already because, along with the Baguette, the other bag that has a similar history is the Peekaboo. Let us say the thing that interests me most is to see how this bag is still relevant today and to see it in the streets. Just today I was walking here, in Downtown, and I saw three to four people with the Baguette which made me very happy, also because they were all super young girls.

What do you think about whenever you see a girl with a Baguette?

I think of my daughters, I immediately think that maybe she stole it from her mom's closet since it happens to me too. I open it, look for my Baguette and then without fail it is not there.

How many Baguette variations have you made?

I do not know, we have never really counted them. I always say more than a thousand, though. But in my opinion, it is much more. Many, many more...

On resale sites, the Baguette is one of the best performing purses…

That is a thermometer… For companies there is the stock index, we have the index about the popularity of a project. Therefore, the index of the desire, and it is growing more and more.

Why do you think Gen Z want to buy this purse?

They understood that the concept of timelessness is really clear. They are very focused and know what timeless fashion means and what its value is, and they know how to distinguish fast fashion from products with a story behind them. More and more of these products and this type of items will be successful.

Have you ever wondered why it has remained such a phenomenon of custom and why we have not had anything like this since?

Because it is a purse that came at the right time. Because it had a unique journey first of all, during the period of minimalism, nylon backpacks, black clothes, uniforms. This purse was the exact opposite, it represented an alternative to the strictness of this period. It was the first purse to be treated as a clothing piece, the first one to be always the same but always different, it was about individuality. Furthermore, its scarcity made it very rare, and the waiting list created a fever. All of this without any social media, at that time we did not even have a marketing division, all before LMVH. The stars aligned for us that day. If we had stood around the table planning how to make a successful bag, we would never have succeeded.

And what about the name?

It comes from the attitude of this purse, since in France the baguette is carried under the arm.

Was it your idea or someone else’s?

No, I read an interview of an American journalist who wrote «this purse is carried around like a baguette», hence the name.

How did you choose to make it this way?

It conveys a sense of security like Linus’ blanket. Backpacks were the trending topic in that period, and it had success partly because it leaves your hands free so you can put them in your pockets with a more masculine attitude, while the long strap gets more in the way, and back then there was no crossbody, only classic bandoliers, or cases. While a short strap blocks the purse, and you can do whatever you want with your hands. It had to be small and soft, first of all. Back then, at the beginning of the 1990s, everything was becoming smaller, starting from the mobile phone, so it seemed right to have a small purse, which was almost molded to the body. The term, in industrial design, is ergonomic.

So, besides the stars, there was also a choice of construction linked to the period…

Yes, first of all it had to be simple. Talking with modelers, it had to be a simple construction which is now the strength point of this purse, because if you want you can make it in different materials if you do not want leather, and if you want it soft, it had to be constructed in a very simple way, like a blank sheet. As a matter of fact, every interpretation we see could not have been possible without that construction. This is not possible, for example, for the Peekaboo.

Karl Lagerfeld was around during that period. What did he say about the Baguette?

He loved it immediately. He even drew me a picture, Madame Silviette avec la Baguette. Then, since he knew I had a passion for jewelry, he asked me, «What do you want to do?», and I answered, «The moment I have money I will buy some diamonds,» like a little girl. He told me, «the Baguette is worth beaucoup des diamants».

Are you excited?

Yes, every runway excites me. The collection is beautiful, energetic. I was already excited with so little when we only did the lighting and music rehearsal. I imagined the runway today.

Did Japanese customers buy the purse?

Everyone already super-bought it.

And about bringing back an icon of the 1990s as Linda Evangelista…

That was a period in which she was a true icon, as the Baguette is, so Linda was the right person. She is a strong, tenacious woman who does not give up, who represents very well the women we like. (All rights reserved)