September’s turning point

The countdown is on for Sabato De Sarno’s debut at the creative helm of Gucci, set for 3 pm on Friday, September 22nd. Sources close to the fashion house informed MFF that the Creative has met multiple times with Francesca Bellettini, the president and ceo of Yves Saint Laurent since 2013, in Rome since July. Gucci has its style office in Rome, while Francesca has been appointed Kering deputy ceo (see MFF of July 18) responsible for the development of the group’s brands in addition to her current position. The Manager’s strategic vision is expected to enhance De Sarno’s talents. On September 23rd, Marco Bizzarri, ceo of Gucci since 2015 and responsible for the sales growth from about 3 billion euros to over 10 billion euros, will vacate the position.

On an interim basis, François-Henri Pinault’s longtime right-hand man, Jean-François Palus, will replace him. Palus is experienced in finance, but less so in product. Sources close to the top management indicate that Palus has already secured a large apartment in Milan. The date for the fashion show has not been announced yet and the location is currently undisclosed. Speculation suggests Brera as a possible location, but it appears there will be a deliberate departure from the innovative work of Alessandro Michele, the previous designer. Among the attendees of the show, two names stand out, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Phoebe Philo. Valentino’s creative director, Piccioli, left a supportive message on Instagram, «Good luck buddy. I will be there applauding you, feeling proud saying ‘I knew it» (see MFF of February 2). Philo, the fashion industry’s revered designer who left Celine in 2017, is returning after a six-year hiatus with a brand named after her. Her website will be available for purchasing her garments exclusively, offering a comprehensive range of ready-to-wear, accessories, bags, shoes, jewelry, and leather goods. The site is scheduled to launch officially in September. The domain, Phoebephilo.com, was secured for an indefinite period but was inaccessible until recently. However, it was not until the night before aAugust that it materialized, capturing the attention of enthusiasts (see MFF of July 27). A plain black screen and a message that reads, «Register here for news and further updates». This is an initial commitment kept, since the announcement of the launch of the luxury brand, backed by Lvmh, a minority shareholder, with the British designer’s namesake. Her debut will be a subdued and digital affair.

This event will mark a significant moment for Milan, which has not seen this level of centrality in years. The new course of Us designer Tom Ford will showcase at the September edition of Milano moda donna in Milan. The brand, controlled by Estée Lauder companies and produced by Zegna group, will present its spring/summer 2024 womenswear collection there. The show will introduce Peter Hawkings as the Creative Director for the first time (see MFF of April 29). «I am honored to be named Tom Ford’s Creative Director», Hawkings said, «and to have this unprecedented chance to help write a new chapter in the brand’s future. Italian craftsmanship and excellence inspire our collections, and I am thrilled to be showcasing them in Milan». In addition, Pharrell Williams is coming to Milan. Moncler, the company launching a new project with the singer, fashion designer, and creative director of Louis Vuitton Men’s collection, is hosting a party on the evening of September 20th (see box on page). However, while many fashion houses write new chapters in their histories, Tod’s is closing a very successful one. Immediately after the september fashion show, Walter Chiapponi will leave his post as creative director, and no replacement has been announced yet. Meanwhile, Moschino celebrates 40 years of the brand without a creative director, creating much anticipation. In March, Jeremy Scott vacated his position which remains unfilled. The upcoming spring/summer 2024 collection will be designed by four stylists (Lucia Liu, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, and Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele), referencing Franco Moschino’s archives. The event is a tribute to his legacy and work.

In addition, Karoline Vitto will show her collection in Milan supported by Dolce&Gabbana, while Simone Bellotti is expected to make his debut at Bally, after only two shows with Rhuigi Villaseñor. Finally, spotlight on The Attico. The upcoming fashion show, founded by Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, will mark the final one featuring head designer Alessandro Vigilante, who has been leading the label since 2020. Designer Maurizio Iapicca (see MFF on July 27), who previously worked at Burberry, is set to replace Vigilante starting next autumn-winter. (All rights reserved)