Schiaparelli’s new golden age

The main floor on Place Vendôme is sharp with everybody who is somebody. Between paneling and gilded stucco, the rooms are set up as if for an exhibition, amidst glasses of champagne and paparazzi shots. «I do not like to use the word 'everyday' for Schiaparelli, and yet this is the bet of every ready-to-wear collection,» creative director Daniel Roseberry told MFF, who by dressing Lady Gaga for the inauguration of president Joe Biden put the Diego Della Valle- controlled maison back on the world fashion map. Indeed, every look is opulent and full of couture touches. «It is also our opportunity to speak to all types of women and all their aspects, roles and implications».

Scenic gowns are adorned with brushstrokes of color in crisp yet voluminous silhouettes, embellished with blatantly glamorous bijoux. Among the it bags, the classic padlock bag is declined in addictive materials and versions, as is the Facebag, «a model that customers all over the world have told me is a topic of conversation wherever they are». Gold dominates, in both original bijoux and accessories. «Our re-elaborations of human anatomy, our bijoux, are special elements as trompe l’oeil hair or the iconic codes such as the gold silk-embroidered sartorial meter». The dresses are not simple but rather designed to accommodate and accompany the person who wears them, responding to one’s life and needs.

A season partly inspired by a recent vacation at Il Pellicano, an Italian resort in Porto Ercole. «It is a great moment for this Maison, and I would say it is clear in every aspect». So far, this luxurious ready-to-wear collection is distributed only in Dover street markets in London and Los Angeles and in Bergdorf Goodman in New York. Should not this be the time for a flagship store? “At Place Vendôme we have our home and that itself is more than a flagship store,” the designer stated. “But I would not exclude the possibility…” Indeed, a great moment for the new Schiaparelli. (All rights reserved)