Ruffini: «The challenge for Moncler’s 70th anniversary»

«My challenge for Moncler’s future? Creating a huge Maison. And to those who tell me that this result is already achieved, I answer that maintaining this level is a challenge in itself.» Remo Ruffini uses these words a few days before the maxi event which, on Saturday night, will light up Piazza Duomo in Milan to celebrate the 70 years since the foundation of the famous puffer jackets-making brand. The starting point of a series of projects that will fill up the next few months. From the launch of Moncler Maya 70, a limited edition of a Maison’s icon, associated to an NFT project, to the involvement of seven creative designers who have contributed to the growth of the brand’s image: Francesco Ragazzi, Thom Browne, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Rick Owens, Giambattista Valli, Pierpaolo Piccioli, and Pharrell Williams, who will all revisit Maya in their own way. At the end, five city exhibitions that, starting on October 5, will take the brand’s history to New York, London, Tokyo, Seoul, and China. To continue to look forward between creativity, supply chain acquisitions, a change in strategy that shifts the axis from possession to experience and the dream of Moncler’s shelters in the world’s most beautiful mountain locations, as explained to MFF by Remo Ruffini, at the helm of a brand that achieved sales of 918 million euros (+48%) in the first half-year.

When you acquired Moncler from Finpart in 2003, did you expect this kind of success?

My goal was always to create a huge brand. We were making 30-40 million euros in profits, I knew we were small and we had to invest on essentials. The supply chain was the first step. The approach is to be as unique as possible. We developed all the markets in a direct way and even went in China by ourselves.

What is the challenge for the future?

The challenge is always the same: creating a huge brand. And to those who tell me that we have already achieved this, I say that maintaining this level is already a challenge in itself. But it not enough for me. In the first half-year our results exceeded the analysts’ consensus and also my own personal expectations, but I do not look at numbers in the short term (except at the cash register, he points out), I prefer a 10-year horizon.

So what needs to change in 10 years?

We are moving from ownership to experience. Let us start with the website, which must undergo a revolution. It can no longer be a catalog. I imagine an experience such as in our store in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan. I think physical stores will remain very important. Nowadays the world lives on communities, which have to be integrated.

Does creating the digital experience you aim to mean accelerating into the metaverse?

I am not thinking about that yet. The metaverse will be critical in our lives in 5, 10 or 15 years. The e-commerce can reach 20-25% in the future. Now it is around 15%. The physical experience is still our benchmark.

After the Stone Island operation have you thought of creating a luxury hub?

I do not think there is that possibility in Italy. There are very independent historical companies. In the world I see interesting small brands. I have always said that we must grow by domestic lines.

And will it acquire businesses of the supply chain?

Yes. This is imperative. A knitwear and shoe factory must come as quickly as possible.

What is the secret of Moncler?

Every day I get up and I feel like we are a start-up. I do not know any other recipe.

You listed yourself in 2013. Today Diego Della Valle is working on delisting. Do you still believe in the stock market?

In my opinion the listing is a good comparison. It allows you to manage a company in a very rigorous way. It is also interesting to compare ourselves with private equity. However, I have always said I do not compromise for the brand. I do not look at results, either only day by day or quarter by quarter.

What is the message that will start from the Piazza Duomo event?

It is not a nostalgia operation. We are always looking forward. However, we want to make known a little bit of our history that started in 1952 and went through the Himalayan expeditions. Its spirit will not be far from the event I did at the Triennale in 2003. The first really important one with 100 guys dressed in gray flannel. This time there will be 1952 people dressed in white, our color. The color of snow. It will be an event broadcast all over the world. We should not say we are 70 years old but think about what we will do in the next 70 years.

And how will the celebration continue?

I actually reluctantly celebrate even my birthday… (laughs). There will be 70 days of activations around the world. And we will have collaborations with 7 of the more than 40-50 great creatives we have worked with, who have accompanied us to Genius...

Will there be a next Genius?

That project was based on physical events, queues outside stores and a big buzz. With Covid-19, however, Genius lost energy on the way. We are coming back in February, and it will be a step forward, not so much in terms of the event but of the community that will not involve only designers.

Will it still be in Milan?

We are still deciding on where to do it.

Speaking of experience, could not a first Moncler hotel be born?

Not a hotel, really. My dream has always been to create an experience in the mountains that could be a hotel, a meeting point, a kind of Moncler retreat. A landmark as a container to energize. From Aspen to St. Moritz or Cortina.

Back to Milan, you will move your headquarters from Via Solari to the new space in Scalo di Porta Romana...

It is a project that started a few years ago and was interrupted by Covid-19. We have resumed it and are starting to build it. It is not going to be a campus but a place to create strong energy and work in a different way. A community.

Is there a particular memory you have of these years at the helm of Moncler?

I do not have a specific memory. I grew a lot thanks to the people I have met who stimulated my curiosity.

Have you ever thought of doing a museum of your garments?

We have a very big space that we are working on for an archive addressed first of all to ourselves. In the new location there will be a dedicated area. We will see how to display the pieces then.

What was Moncler 70 years ago, what is it today and what will it be in another 70 years?

We have not lost our history, and that is a very strong value that makes me proud. The slogan of the listing was "Survive Fashion," and I believe I have kept that promise. I entered the luxury world and somehow survived fashion. The product of 70 years ago is there, certainly with more technology, but it is still there. Our dream for the next 70 years remains somewhat this. Having another 16 images that match the previous 16 (from the Heritage Campaign, ed.) could be a great goal. (All rights reserved)