Rick Owen’s future

More Rick Owens. The title encapsulates the desire for further exploration. This book delves into the work of the Us designer through a photo compendium published by Rizzoli. Danielle Levitt, a photographer who previously authored a book focusing on Owens’ aesthetic (see MFF of July 27, 2019), captures this new phase of Owens’ work set to hit bookstores in October. In a period of transformation in his career, he experimented with new shapes and materials, and explored novel approaches to color. These years coincided with the pandemic, which the designer spent in his mansion in the Venice Lido, where he hosted memorable fashion shows despite the full lockdown. The brand’s almost three-decade-long evolution, which will culminate in its 30th anniversary in 2024, was marked by a commitment to provocation and avant-garde. As Rick Owens explained in his interview with MFF.

What does this book say about you?

It helps explaining my philosophy of proposing an alternative aesthetic for those who may not fit into contemporary cultural norms, which can be inflexible, oppressive, and cruel. While I respect the classical beauty of history, I also aim to make it more adaptable. I know my world may not resonate with everyone, but you hope it inspires a sense of liberation in some.

What Danielle Levitt captured in these images?

These are behind-the-scenes moments before the fashion show captured in Danielle’s temporary photography studio, with loud techno music playing in our backstage area while Danielle dances, twerks, and encourages the models to pose. The garments are at their peak state of beauty and freshness and are only a few minutes away from being presented to the public for the first time. Danielle captures the excitement and anticipation of pursuing beauty independently, believing in its power and glory.

Part of the book discusses the pandemic. What do you recall of that period?

I recall it as a chance for our team to unite and face an uncertain situation with our best efforts. Every team member responded with great dignity and honor, and I felt incredibly proud.

During the pandemic, you stayed in your home in Venice. Why do you have such a strong connection with Italy?

It is because my factory is just a two-hour drive away (in Concordia sulla Secchia, in the province of Modena, ed.). As soon as possible, I rushed to my factory to ensure our survival. We prepared to adapt and simplify in response to any unexpected events.

What significance does Italy hold for your fashion brand?

Italy has long epitomized exceptional ability in fashion manufacturing. I find it to be the ideal location for executing the type of apparel I aspire to be known for.

Speaking of products, one of your most recognized and appreciated products are the Kiss Boots. What is the secret of such success?

I believe they have just the right amount of grotesqueness for a social climate that was far from literal references but generationally ready to embrace a certain level of archaic. To be fair, I did not calculate much and made them for myself.

You are the owner of the company. What are your goals for the brand’s future?

I always say I aim to improve, not expand. My creative endeavors will always be bold and authentic while our methods remain responsible and kind. We can always improve.

What is your vision for the future of fashion?

There will always be a desire to express our humanity through personal decoration or power. This has been a constant throughout history, and will persist in some form or another. While the methods may evolve, the underlying drive will remain constant. (All rights reserved)