Ready-to-Schiaparelli at the Paris fashion week

Ready-to-Schiaparelli. The fantastic becomes ordinary and the surreal and flamboyant world of Elsa Schiaparelli is translated from couture into daywear looks. In his second test with Diego Della Valle’s ready-to-wear brand, Daniel Roseberry draws on his US heritage by recontextualizing it in Paris, at Place Vendôme. This approach stems from the idea of no longer presenting collections solely in ateliers but in the Italian Embassy in Paris. «I aimed to employ the same language as the Founder, but in a more accessible manner, with a hint of humor», Roseberry said to MFF. «I reconnected with a story from Marisa Berenson, which recounts a crucial episode in her grandmother Elsa’s career. Elsa saw a sweater worn by a friend and had it redone in a surreal and nonconformist manner, ultimately transforming an everyday garment into something special».

The show begins with an impactful and intense incipit, but as it progresses, simpler pieces take over. These pieces are dismembered from the individual looks such as a white shirt, trench coat, and black tuxedo blazer, all revamped through the application of the Maison’s codes, including the metalwork of a decomposed bag, a plastron that reproduces the toes to make the toe of the new sneakers, a giant jewel, tailor’s tape measure used as a lapel, and buttons that reproduce lips and ears. «She is the same woman as in couture, with the same sense of humor, but with a completely different mindset», Roseberry added, who incorporated US sportswear and denim culture for the first time. Second-skin stretch fabrics alternated with sculptural denim creations, in a dualism between sharp silhouettes and softer shapes in the clothing. The fashion house’s surrealist symbol, the lobster, is printed in cotton on the all-white skirt. Red nail polish brushstrokes embellish the dresses while nail tips create fantastic scales on Kendall Jenner’s finale dress.

Judgment. Minimalist ready-to-wear does not fit within the Schiaparelli universe. Creative director Daniel Roseberry transforms everyday items in a unique way. «Each piece is completely reproducible», he emphasized. «Sales spaces for ready-to-wear are now available in Paris, London, Dallas, and New York. They are achieving great success due to the strong appeal of hyper-luxury that captivates women of all ages and from around the world, who aspire to align themselves with these collections», the designer concluded. (All rights reserved)