Ralph Lauren’s Golden Age

«A fresh and sophisticated collection of romance», Ralph Lauren described his spring-summer 2024 collection, recently presented at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. Once the most significant naval facility in the Us and currently a hub of urban innovation, the industrial exterior of the location is misleading. Upon arrival, visitors are pleasantly surprised by the vibrant atmosphere within the facility amidst the New York night. The setting inside resembles a painter’s studio in a ranch, blending country and artsy elements with rustic and refined aesthetics, ranging from natural wood planks to crystal chandeliers. A venue that possesses the characteristics always favored by the Us designer, who elected to showcase his return to the official calendar of the New York fashion week via a runway show, after being absent since 2019.

«It is a woman who can express herself with a personal style by wearing délavé jeans with painted flowers, iconic black and gold shapes, or a mix of vibrant colors and luxury handcrafted customizations that create light. These stories represent the artistic spirit and personality of the woman I create as a canvas for self-expression» the designer added, who showed his pieces in front of a special fan-filled parterre, with a very Hollywood first row. Repeated flash for Jennifer Lopez, Diane Keaton, Julianne Moore, Robin Wright, Amanda Seyfried, Emma Roberts and Laura Dern. However, there is also a large lineup of Marvel actors, with those faces impersonating today’s big screen superheroes. More chic and less active is the timeless style that hovers on the catwalk. German top model Anna Ewers, in an embroidered striped shirt and those flower-patterned jeans that will be a common thread of the season, even in an evening version, for a skirt with a maxi train. Indeed, the classic spring palette of blue and white is reproposed on precious denim canvases, embroidered cinquetasche and a jacket embellished with rhinestones, patches, feathers and embroideries.

The designs feature refined metallic thread details and reinterpretations of iconic pieces with a modern twist. The collection includes tailcoats, rodeo belts, Victorian ruffles, cowboy hats, and bold color combinations. The black and gold color scheme is dominant in this collection. It also incorporates 70s influences, fringes, and shawls constructed with weaves in intense pinks and greens, as seen in Guy Bourdin’s photographs. It is always fringe that hangs from the hemlines of evening dresses, in fabrics with colors as vibrant as gemstones. They appeal to women who are familiar with the fashion industry. The prominent Vlada with the graceful stride. The enigmatic Magdalena Frackowiak in a golden polo shirt and full skirt. The versatile Mariacarla Boscono and the mesmerizing Natalia Vodianova with a 24-carat braided jacket. To close out the show, Christy Turlington joins 90s supermodels Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell as media stars of the week. She wears a liquid dress that appears to cling to her body and is almost golden in appearance. Very reminiscent of Goldfinger.

Judgment. Timeless. Reassuring. We do not strive for the latest trends or fads. Ralph Lauren’s style is a reflection of its dedication to blending glamour with a US rustic, country charm. More than the clothes, it is the overall storytelling that holds the trail. (All rights reserved)