EnglishRalph Lauren back to the catwalk
A reconstructed design house at the Moma to celebrate the US designer's coming back to the catwalk, parading with a cast that belongs to its aesthetic history. From Gigi and Bella Hadid to Vittoria Ceretti as well as Shalom Harlow and Laetitia Casta
White. Black. Ralph Lauren chose two absolute colours for the furnishings recalling a special house, the one of his parents. A feeling that the American designer decided to reconstruct in one of the rooms of the Moma in New York. The famous museum is an iconic place in the US, as iconic as the style of Mr. Lauren, back to the catwalk live after the last live fashion show in September 2019. With the restoration of the more canonical mechanism of presentation with show and in-store entry to follow, after a few seasons of see now buy now, which was put aside for the moment. «When I decided months ago to show my fw 2022 collection in an intimate evening, there was no war in Ukraine», Ralph Lauren himself explained, «the tragedy and devastation we are witnessing now were unthinkable. All I was thinking about was to reunite with my team after so long, and with all of you, to share the sense of hope inspired by creativity and collaboration. With this sadness in our hearts, we move forward united in the hope of peace, of the end of this pandemic to be together again. I am so proud to be with you again not only to share a collection, but also the optimism of living in respect and dignity for all». The words of the designer match his willingness to open the doors of his house, or rather of his maison, considering his Dna is reaffirmed in front of a parterre featuring names such as Jessica Chastain, Janelle Monae or Henry Golding. These are just some of the celebrities who attended one of the two scheduled fashion shows, more intimate in terms of number of participants but with a very media-friendly first row. To tell even a new audience what the milestones and iconic accents are.
Black and white is the fil rouge of the show, sensuality is in the neckline, seduction is in moving the hair in front of the photographers to show the naked back. The great Gatsby always hovers in the air, as well as the world in the Aspen mountains or a ranch in Colorado. Masculine tailoring is also forged for the woman between tuxedos and shirts with plastrons, between down jackets with Indian reservation style references and cowgirl hats worn even on sheath dresses. Then, houndstooth and tartan immediately bring to mind the famous advertising campaigns that have enchanted our imagination. And here those campaigns seem to come alive. On the catwalk, a roundup of excellent names, models who have participated in the history of the Maison over the years. Gigi Hadid, back to her blonde hair, opens the show. Her sister Bella is not to be missed, but there are also girls such as Shalom Harlow and Laetitia Casta, up to Vittoria Ceretti who closes the show wearing a jacket and a baseball cap over an impeccable tuxedo. A butterfly wearing a bow tie.
Judgment. «My collection is a celebration of timeless black and white style», Ralph Lauren himself added, «accentuated by the elegant lines of tailored silhouettes for men and women. With the opportunity to come together again in person, I wanted to share all this in an intimate setting within the iconic Museum of modern art in New York city». Ipse dixit and not surprisingly. Iconic squared. As always, the message is very clear, precise and sharp. No smears, no uncertainties. Ralph Lauren’s american dream continues. (All rights reserved)