Prada’s Vertigo

It is once again a revolutionary act to redefine the spaces of Prada’s fashion show hall. As in the men’s show, a viscous substance oozes from the runway, flowing through a pale pink metal grating, conveying a sense of weightlessness and mobility, which aligns with the collection’s overall message. This marks an important chapter in the fashion house’s craft story. «In this collection, we aimed to emphasize the significance of work, methods, techniques, and value», Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons said at the show’s sidelines.

«We aimed to emphasize decoration and the technical complexity of embroidery, while highlighting fluidity, movement, and materials». This approach represents a departure from Prada’s usual aesthetic. «As a devoted admirer of the brand, I find that Prada has never fully conveyed its impressive expertise and rich legacy rooted in tradition» Raf Simons pointed out. In this return to a more tangible, palpable reality, embroidery and workmanship are crucial components. On the Vertigo-inspired notes, clothing adorned with swirling crystals are showcased. Sparkles illuminate the velvet and leather dresses and burst froth from the silver fringed skirts, treated as actual pieces of jewelry.

Fringe is a recurring theme throughout the collection, appearing on several garments to enhance the sense of movement, creating a continuous chiming of steps. The impalpable organza and gazar dresses also convey this perpetual motion, making them ideal for walking through a wind tunnel. On the other hand, the masculine aspect is present as well, with black leather lace-ups worn with a slipped back sock that stand out on legs left bare by minimalist shorts. Jackets and mannish shirts with exaggerated sleeves are tucked into these shorts to complete the look. Cocoon coats made of patinated patchwork leather surround the body, while sweaters adorned with metallic rings are layered over cashmere polo shirts. These looks seamlessly combine tailoring with a certain street coolness. A reproduction of the napa bag with a mythological face as an ornamental clasp, originally created by Mario Prada in 1913, walks down the runway as a demonstration of the brand’s commitment to enhancing its know-how.

Judgement. «Although we do not typically do so, we wanted to showcase the craftmanship and complexity behind our clothing. This is how we find beauty today». At a time when quiet luxury is popular, Prada prioritized the clothing, allowing it to speak for itself without added narratives or structures. Instead, we offer stories of skilled artisans, expertise, and the Made in Italy label. No wonder why the Group is eager to improve the supply chain with new investments (see MFF of August 29). A journey into Prada’s past culminates with an unexpected homage to Fabio Zambernardi, Miuccia Prada’s trusted colleague who is departing soon (see MFF on September 4). Zambernardi captivates the audience with a never-before-seen backstage appearance and embraces the designer and Raf Simons. (All rights reserved)