Pitti’s new era

«Our sector is estimated to grow by 4-5% by the end of 2023, but the good data of the first quarter tells us that we can and must do better in my opinion», Antonio De Matteis stated, outlining the expectations for the fashion industry, during his first interview as the newly appointed president of Pitti immagine (see MFF of February 24) in an exclusive for MFF. Calm, competence, and optimism are the words that come naturally to associate with the way he speaks. At 59, Kiton’s ceo brings an international vision combined with solid and proud roots in Southern Italy, the first for the florentine brand. «I feel 100% Italian and 100% neapolitan. I believe that South Italy has an important fabric of businesses to enhance, but I want to be the president of all our members». While waiting to meet with government officials, he praised the intentions of minister Adolfo Urso and prime minister Giorgia Meloni, but he preferred to wait for facts, from anti-counterfeiting laws to supports to the supply chain. His is an all-around vision from the return of chinese tourists to the number of exhibitors at the Fortezza da basso, «which we had to limit to 850, since for at least three years, maybe four, the whole area will be affected by substantial modernization and restoration work».

This will be your first Pitti as president. The event is a barometer of made in Italy menswear, what do you expect for the upcoming months?

The first quarter of 2023 was definitely very positive if compared to 2022, when many companies had even surpassed 2019. I am a very optimistic person as far as business is concerned, so I remain calm. The data at the moment is 4-5% growth for the industry by the end of the year, but I hope we can do better. I think this Pitti will be a further confirmation, as well as improvement over the last edition, which I experienced as an exhibitor and was very good.

So, can we expect to grow beyond 5%?

We can and we must. We can succeed because we have the potential to do so.

The last edition was still not at the pre-Covid-19 exhibitor numbers. What can you tell us for june?

This number will not come back for so many reasons. In the next few years, Pitti will undergo a major renovation and many spaces will not be available. We are trying to maintain a number of exhibitors without kicking anyone out. We chose 850 exhibitors, while last year had 750 to 780 exhibitors: it is a slight increase, but we are forced to stop there cause from july, the whole Fortezza da basso will be renovated in stages, in order not to block the following Pitti events, so there will certainly be a reduction in exhibitors. The work will take up to 3 to 4 years. Since this is an historical asset, there might be some surprises, but, as I said, I am optimistic.

How do you see the role of Pitti in general?

Today, Pitti is definitely a great opportunity for companies to have visibility, market opportunities, to meet new partners. It is also a great communication opportunity. The fact these emblazoned companies such as Fendi (see MFF of March 16) take the runway at Pitti is the sign that Pitti has to remain high to maintain this level, that companies have to be qualified. I believe that Pitti uomo is the most important men’s fashion event in the world, the fact that Milano moda uomo comes right after just reinforces even more the Italian system for menswear fashion all over the world.

Minister Adolfo Urso is preparing a framework law on fashion. What do you expect?

I have not yet had the pleasure of meeting with government officials, but I have heard speeches from both minister Adolfo Urso and prime minister Giorgia Meloni. Certainly, we expect a lot, there has been talk of developing a high school dedicated to made in Italy, but actions speak louder than words. I hope everything will run because there is no time to lose. If the French, who are recognized as top global luxury companies, come to buy in Italy, we have then a duty not to let this supply chain disappear.

As long as I can remember, I do not remember another Pitti president from South Italy. Is this a signal? Will it bring different attention?

Absolutely. I feel 100% italian and 100% neapolitan. For us as a company, but also for me personally, Kiton is a source of great pride to represent Southern Italy. However, I would like to represent all of Italy and all of our companies. I think the South has incredible potential and know-how. My dream is to travel without a passport all over the world. Talking about Northern and Southern Italy seems reductive to me.

Are chinese tourists coming back? According to our survey, they reach 30% compared to pre-Covid-19 levels. Do you have any numbers?

A few weeks ago, I was in China, but there are quite a few problems with chinese visas. We have all our staff in that area, who in order to come to Italy encounter many difficulties. As a result, there will not be a fast return as in 2019. However, the fact that they have started to issue visas from China is a sign that they will come back sooner rather than later. I think this shows that we have to be confident that the chinese tourist will definitely come back and exceed the pre-Covid-19 levels. I believe it will slowly come back. 2024 will certainly be the year to see those numbers again (see MFF yesterday).

Pitti represents the medium-sized business side. What does this sector need today? What could the government do?

We expect laws that can foster growth, something to bring us back at the level of energy sources, and laws to protect Made in Italy and counterfeiting, which are essential for everyone. As entrepreneurs, we have to do our part and not just wait for the government to do something, we have to walk together and lead by example. This is as well our business modus operandi and our training school, established 23 years ago, which was done independently without waiting for laws or funding.

Patrizio Bertelli said that aggregations among Italian companies are difficult. However, supply chain acquisitions are increasing as showed by Marzotto with MinervaHub or Florence. Will we see further concentration in your opinion?

Definitely there will be more supply chain acquisitions because today selling is not easy and producing is even more difficult, so the supply chain is becoming crucial for all of us. Talking about aggregations, everyone refers to the French international groups, but they should be talking about the people who manage a set of brands and not groups. In Italy, starting even with Prada, given its important size, it is difficult for two entrepreneurs to decide who gets the best store without fighting. The French decide it at the table, as one person decides it, so that is why they do not fight. It is a little different… Bernard Arnault can decide on his own. Groups in Italy are possible, however, if there is one person at the head of this group who is in charge as in France. (all rights reserved)