Pitti 101, male tales

The Florence-Milan axis kicks off today the month of menswear fall-winter 2021/22, once again in the sign of Made in Italy. A well-established union of good omen for the country system in a still complex economic and health context. Buyers and visitors are getting ready to observe the proposals for the next cold season at the 101st edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, which from this morning until Thursday will welcome to Fortezza da Basso the proposals of over 610 brands, 202 of which are foreign. «That's almost double the 348 of last summer», Raffaello Napoleone, ceo of Pitti immagine, explained to MFF. «We are proud to have confirmed the event after the many cancellations including Ispo in Munich and fashion week in London. With Carlo Capasa (president of Cnmi-Camera nazionale della moda italiana, ndr.) we are working very well and we have always maintained that in Italy it is necessary to consolidate a full week between Florence and Milan on men's fashion».

This is while respecting the fundamental rules of safety. «We created Safe with Pitti to communicate to all operators what we are doing in these terms», Napoleone continued. «From an analysis by Grs, a group that deals with customer satisfaction, from 1 to 5 of all the fairs held last summer, Pitti had a 4,9 consensus on safety and we are doing the same for the next editions. We are dealing with a series of issues, from the management of the entrances to the creation of a place where swabs can be taken, to the green pass controls so as to have a Fortezza da Basso that is absolutely Covid free». Giving confidence to the exhibition and exhibitors are also the economic data that show a gradual recovery of the country with: «A gdp growth of 6.5% that will take us even to exceed the data of 2019 and revenues for fashion rose in the first eight medium by 19%. The most important brands, with significant presences in less reachable markets such as Asia, are already reporting good results with America moving well. The situation is not negative for brands that have a distribution of risk across multiple markets».

International buyers attending Pitti Uomo include big names such as Bergdorf Goodman, Beymen, Brown, Galeries Lafayette, Harvey Nichols, Hudson Bay, Joyce, Lane Crawford, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth avenue and The Webster just to name a few. «Fundamental for the incoming of buyers was also for this edition the support of Ice and Maeci», said Napoleone, «and I am sure that the exhibitors will be able to win the attentions of buyers increasingly interested in a playful and colorful fashion to react to a situation that remains uncertain. Regarding the fair, the ceo added: «We have occupied all the built spaces of the Fortezza and have built a temporary structure for children, which has reacted better than expected. Very interesting are the 6,000 square meters dedicated to Futuro maschile, which has definitely increased, between historical brands in the area and new projects. I am convinced that it will be a Pitti full of new proposals».

Special guest of this edition will be Ann Demeulemeester (see article on page 12), «we are very pleased that Florence has been chosen for this project, which is absolutely in line with our established strategy of presenting new initiatives to the Italian and international markets», said Napoleone. Among the others, the Knt event by Kiton, at its debut in the Fortezza, Caruso that invites the public to a jazz soirée and then space to the green with the Sustainable style area. Colmar in the central square will make video and product installation, while 032c will launch a loungewear line. In the Arsenale the presence of Scandinavian manifesto is confirmed to create a bridge with the Revolver fair in Copenhagen. To be mentioned also the return of Lardini with a special capsule collection, Paul&Shark with the new proposal realized in tandem with White Mountaneering or the sustainable collections of Ecoalf. In addition, on the occasion of 125 years of Filson, WP Lavori in corso announces the licensing and European distribution of the brand made in the USA, as well as the acquisition of a 10% share, with a special event.

Save the duck will celebrate its tenth anniversary, Premiata will debut its first clothing collection and Christopher Raeburn will bring to the show the evolution of the pioneering and sustainable design of his Raeburn brand. Lastly, this edition will also see the continuation of Pitti Immagine's well-established collaboration with Camera buyer Italia to offer members a series of welcome services at the Fortezza during their visit to the fair. «These are many small signs of a market restart», concluded Napoleone. (reproduction reserved)