Paris conquers buyers

The Paris fashion week marked the close of the fashion month showcasing womenswear for spring-summer 2024. MFF interviewed buyers who praised Saint Laurent, Loewe, Valentino, Miu miu, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, and The Row. Notable farewell shows from Gabriela Hearst at Chloé and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, where Seán McGirr was appointed creative director, added excitement. Additionally, Louise Trotter’s debut runway show for Carven received positive reviews. Peter Do leads the pack of emerging designers, followed by Vaquera, Zomer, Hodakova, Alice Vaillant, Atlein, Duran Lantink, Another tomorrow and Christopher Esber. The upcoming hot season’s wardrobe features various interpretations of transparency, alongside mini shorts, skirts, and dresses. The trench coat is a must-have, accompanied by flat shoes for footwear.

«Paris ended the season with a burst of energy. Final bows for Gabriela Hearst at Chloé and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen created excitement. Saint Laurent was notably chic and wearable. Daniel Roseberry from Schiaparelli charmed with the special final red dress and gold sneakers. Dries Van Noten achieved a perfect balance of masculine and feminine elements. Vaquera and Zomer were among the highly promising new designers. The prevailing trend showcased a light and airy feel with clear layers, predominantly organza. Mini and micro shorts were prevalent, along with bursts of red in an otherwise muted season. Additionally, spring flowers were accentuated with stunning 3D designs and embellishments», Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus, said.

«The fashion week was well-established with a perfectly balanced sense of directionality. A smooth ambiance (like a Saint Laurent dress) with collections that were urban, minimal, understated, yet also poetic. The current trend is to showcase cohesive ensembles with defined shapes and bold attitudes. A standout among the recent runway shows was Louise Trotter’s debut for Carven, while Loewe presented exquisite accessories. Courrèges made a powerful and revolutionary statement through both their set and clothing, while Balenciaga created an extraordinary and unique theater-like experience. Gauchere and Peter Do showcased sophisticated silhouettes. Miu miu concluded the week with an exquisite look, blending surf and intellectual styles seamlessly. The most notable shows among the younger audience were Hodakova’s and Alice Vaillant’s», Maud Pupato, the director of purchasing for luxury women’s wear, accessories, and footwear at Printemps, said. «The event had a mixed tone with some brands presenting beautiful shows, while others were creatively stagnant. The season feels like a waiting game, with fluctuations that mirror market uncertainties. Top shows included Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, and Miu miu. Issey Miyake, Carven with new designer Louise Trotter, Alexander McQueen, and Acne Studios were also noteworthy. Among the younger designers showcased, Peter Do and Atlein stood out. The upcoming summer fashion trends feature a plethora of transparent dresses and accessories, bermuda shorts, mini-dresses, skirts, one-shoulder dresses, and trench coats in abundance. On the feet, ballerinas or mules will be the go-to footwear option», Federica Montelli, the head of fashion at Rinascente, commented. «Paris lacked a bit of theatricality, although there were exceptions like Rick Owens and Undercover. Miu Miu, Loewe, and Y/Project were among my personal favorites. At Rick Owens, there was a fantastic location with incredibly cinematic sets and outfits. At Valentino’s, the live performance by FKA twigs was fascinating. Look out for Duran Lantink and Rui, who featured transparencies, floaty volumes, all white, jumpsuits, and flat shoes», Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer at Mytheresa, stated. «In Paris, the charming locations and multi-day calendar made a real difference compared to Milan. Saint Laurent was extremely chic. From Giambattista Valli come the various archetypes of today’s woman. Valentino exemplifies excellent workmanship and manufacturing. Gabriela Hearst ended on a high note at Chloé. Elie Saab brings touches of couture to ready-to-wear. Miu Miu sets the trend for the future. Balmain offered a modern vision, with French spirit», Riccardo Tortato, the new executive director of retail and F&B at NEOM in Saudi Arabia.

«The Paris catwalks featured red and pink accents against a muted palette. Rick Owens showcased an upbeat collection, incorporating vibrant colors in both the show and set design. Another notable highlight was Dries Van Noten’s preppy interpretation, featuring slimmed-down blazers and sequin-adorned tops. Loewe also impressed with Jonathan Anderson’s continued storytelling, featuring extraordinary must-have accessories», Heather Gramston, senior head of women’s and men’s buying at Browns, said. «The Paris collections exude beauty and elegance in both physical and emotional forms. The latest Sarah Burton show for McQueen, along with extraordinary shows by Loewe, Saint Laurent, and The Row, leave a lasting impression. Younger designers such as Savette, Another Tomorrow and Christopher Esber also shone brightly. Next summer’s highlights include extraordinary everyday wear, particularly from Loewe and Saint Laurent, customized organza by each designer, and Bauhaus-inspired shades. The color red is accentuated with touches of cobalt blue, yellow and green. Top show, the fisherman sandal. The jelly sandal from The Row is also nice. When it comes to bags, the squeeze bag by Loewe stands out», Libby Page, market director of Net-a-porter, stated. «This has been one of the best seasons with beautiful feminine collections, lovely colors, and great shapes. Among the top shows are Loewe, Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Carven, and Dries Van Noten. Additionally, younger brands like Christian Cowan and Heliot Emil have also impressed. The oversized trench coat will be a staple item in a wardrobe focused on sheer fabrics, dramatic shoulder lines, short skirts and dresses, form-fitting silhouettes, and men’s suiting with high-waisted pants. Vanilla and light blue pastels, as well as burgundy, grey, and beige, are the top colors to look out for» Denis V. Evstafiev, founder of Fashionistas concept, said. «Among the collections, Miu miu stood out as one of the most beautiful shows in Paris, while Saint Laurent exuded exceptional elegance and Valentino embodied a supremely feminine aesthetic Loewe, very Jonathan Anderson, lots of leather, incredible workmanship and details, top the Loewe squeeze bag. Similarly, Dries Van Noten’s feminine aesthetic is consistent with the brand’s DNA. The summer 2024 collection features a pencil skirt, a chiffon blouse, mules, and a Miu miu bag», Gabriele Pancheri, head of buying at G&B, Negozio, said. «Paris was at a luxury high like Milan, with many emerging designers and a high population. The designers showed concern for the current climate, and the standout collections were from Saint Laurent, Valentino, Loewe, and Sacai. There was also a nice Rick Owens show and a very scenic Mugler show. Despite it being summer, there were many jackets and outerwear pieces shown in black and burgundy, paired with lots of sabots. The photo depicts a woman who exudes a more mature and feminine aura», Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas consulting, said, which oversees the purchase of 40 multibrand retailers in Italy and Europe. «The Milan trend promotes an elegant feminine aesthetic that hinges on a drawn silhouette, featuring a play between miniskirts and shorts. The color scheme is predominantly white, black, and natural with a pop of red. It is recommended to wear flat shoes. Top brands include Hermès, Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, The Row, Chloé, Valentino, and McQueen. Also worth watching are Cecilie Bahnsen, Lutz Huelle, and Peter Do», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, a multi-brand purchasing consultant, said. The market will now take over. (All rights reserved)