Paris conquers buyers

The City of Lights closed the month dedicated to autumn-winter 2023/2024 women’s fashion with a touch of style. Buyers interviewed by MFF promote spectacular locations and collections under the banner of Parisian grandeur and modern elegance, played between luxury, tailoring, essentiality and femininity, in line with what was already seen in Milan. Top shows were Saint Laurent, Loewe and The row.

Approvals as well for Courrèges, Miu Miu, Dior, Rick Owens, Valentino, Chloé, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten and Stella McCartney. Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut at Ann Demeulemeester was well approved, as well as Schiaparelli’s first ready-to-wear show. Andreas Kronthaler’s show for Vivienne Westwood was exciting. Among the youngest, Coperni stands out, which has people talking for its robots, as did Atlein, Johanna Ortiz, A.w.a.k.e. mode, Lgn-Louise Gabriel Nouchi- , and bags by Dentro. «At the end of fashion month, there is always an undeniable energy in Paris. With an obvious reset among the Maisons, the focus was on understated elegance, refinement and understatement. Key items were long coat, pencil skirts and black. It was interesting to see some younger designers reflecting on the relationship between fashion and technology, like at Courrèges and Coperni,» Jodi Kahn, vice president luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus, said.

«Loewe was spectacular. I loved tailoring and layers from The Row, but also the feminine twist, the touch of red, the eveningwear and the pumps. Saint Laurent kicked off the week with a bang. Schiaparelli’s first ready-to-wear show wowed» Kahn added. «A more glamorous Paris than ever, including beautiful locations, historic Maisons, emerging designers and coolness. Courrèges was one of the highlights. Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut at Ann Demeulemeester was nice. As always, Saint Laurent imposed a new enhanced version of femininity. Red is the color of the season. Leather and denim are in the foreground. Transparency is established. Navel piercing could be the new trending accessory,» Maud Pupato, womenswear Dmm luxury and designers at Printemps, explained. «A very successful fashion week, with many collections exceeding expectations. The widespread classy-chic atmosphere gave an opportunity to shine to many designers perhaps previously more focused on finding a viral moment rather than creating beautiful clothes. Best shows were Loewe, Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Miu Miu, Paco Rabanne, Chloé, Courrèges. Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut was convincing, as was Ibrahim Kamara’s at Off-White. Andreas Kronthaler’s show for Vivienne Westwood was exciting. Among the new talents, Atlein and the bags by Dentro,» Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente, said. «Saint Laurent, The row and Rick Owens were my favorites. Andreas Kronthaler’s show was exciting, Courrèges as well. We saw a lot of tartan, capes and long sashes, gorgeous maxi silhouettes from Saint Laurent, Rick Owens and Givenchy. Strong emphasis on tailoring as at Balmain. Ann Demeulemeester, Victoria Beckham and Loewe presented transparencies in perfect contrast to tailoring. Loewe’s floppy boot and the oversized cape from The Row were the key items», Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear and kidswear fshion buying at Mytheresa, explained.

«Dior was inspired by french women with a strong concept of independence and freedom. Saint Laurent presented an elegant, sexy, and glamourous femininity. Courrèges chose a modernity without frills. In a grand choreography, Dries Van Noten showed delicate feminine dresses with contrast between masculine fabrics, chiffon, and gold flashes. Miu Miu’s woman was independent, feminine, and contemporary», Beppe Angiolini of Sugar said. «Jonathan Anderson’s collection for Loewe was beautiful, Balenciaga’s reset with Demna Gvasalia was clear, and Isabel Marant gave a memorable fashion moment. The understated luxury has become a key trend, emphasizing a wardrobe with tailored clothes even for evening wear. Black, grays, and a neutral color palette with a hint of red took center stage. Crocodile and snake print leather were everywhere, while soft, furry textures were highlighted in outerwear and bags», Heather Gramston, head of womenswear at Browns in London, explained.

«A gorgeous Saint Laurent and his super sexy and chic woman, played with oversized jackets, matching blouses and mid-length skirts. A lovely Valentino with mini dresses made into shirts and oversized jackets. Dior chose a wonderful location for a collection in the DNA of the Maison. The Row showed an incredible elegance. Dries Van Noten and Loewe are always consistent with their image, while Coperni’s robot show was pleasant», Gabriele Pancheri, head of buying at G&B, said. «The protagonist in Paris was a wearable and elevated clothing. Coperni’s robot show was another innovative moment with the brand, and Loewe’s interpretation of contemporary classics with digital printed clothes was another breakthrough by Anderson. A common theme was the 1990s minimalism, the love of black, a more grunge version of the 90s look that continues with Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut. Red was another recurring theme in the Stella McCartney, The Row, and Valentino shows», Libby Page, market director at Net-A-Porter, stated.

«As in Milan, we found a crowded Paris full of shows. The top collections were Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, and Stella McCartney. I appreciated Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut. In the foreground, black declined in its punk and dramatic versions, with layered lace and tulle, more oversized garments, and lots of cuissardes boots», Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi from PLAS Consulting, which manages the buying of 40 multibrand signs in Italy and Europe, said.

«The Milanese trend of sexy tailoring continues in Paris. The protagonists are long coats and jackets with important shoulders. The best shows were Saint Laurent, Valentino, Miu Miu, Chloé, Victoria Beckham, and Givenchy, with the Voyou Bag which could become an it-bag. Good debut from Schiaparelli in ready-to-wear. LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI LGN stood out among the youngest», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for Italian multibrands, explained. «The fashion shows were fantastic, with a great return to feminine elegance with elements of the male wardrobe. My favorites were Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Chanel, Zimmermann, and Loewe. Johanna Ortiz and A.W.A.K.E. MODE stood out among the youngest. The main trends were silhouettes with oversized shoulders, minimalist monochromatic looks, masculine suits, mini dresses, and long coats. There was a lot of faux leather and faux fur, oversize handbags, over-the-knee boots, and long scarves», Denis V. Evstafiev, founder of Fashionistas Concept, enthused. Now the word goes to the market. (All rights reserved)