Paris conquers buyers

In the name of Parisian grandeur, with a rich calendar of Instagram-worthy moments, such as those described to MFF by the interviewed buyers. The protagonist is womenswear for 2023 spring-summer, which plays on sensuality, elegance, desire to escape and showmanship, although the strong comeback of black and post-apocalyptic scenarios, as the one by Balenciaga, are reminiscent of the uncertainty of the global situation. Among the shows, Saint Laurent is unanimously on the podium. Huge applauses also for the artistic-surrealist runway of Loewe, as well as for Balenciaga and its muddy setting. Coperni hits it out of the parks with the spray-on dress on Bella Hadid’s body. Amazing consensus also for Valentino, Dior, Miu Miu, Dries Van Noten, Courrèges, and The Row. Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Ottolinger, Minuit, Germanier, Chet Lo, and Gauchere stand out among young designers.

«A crowdy and optimistic Paris, despite the threat of recession, with a fashion week dedicated to sophistication, elegance, and the pleasure of going out and party. However, maybe it was lacking some novelty charm and Milan’s renewal,» Nathalie Lucas-Verdier, general merchandise director Accessories, luxury, shoes & women ready-to-wear at Printemps, stated. «Saint Laurent was amazing with its elongated silhouettes and super desirable leather garments. Loewe was a visual treat and showed Jonathan Anderson’s strengths. Miu Miu came back with a strong collection all about its DNA and Miuccia Prada’s codes,» Lucas-Verdier added, citing Saint Laurent’s setting, Courrèges’ beautiful sand, Coperni’s momentum and the mud field in Balenciaga’s show among the Instagram-worthy moments.

«My favorite shows were Loewe, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga. Balenciaga’s post-apocalyptic scenery was very impactful, Saint Laurent’s location was so dreamy, exuding Parisian elegance, and that iconic dress spray-painted on Bella Hadid during Coperni’s show,» Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear and kidswear fashion buying at Mytheresa, explained. «Talking about trends, many short tops, cargo pants and rave influences following Y2K looks, in addition to wonderful, surrealist, and exaggerated artisanal works. Key pieces: The Row’s sock boots, Balenciaga’s arm bags and sunglasses, and Saint Laurent’s maxi coat,» Hsu added, including Chet Lo, Rui, Didu, and Ponte among the names to watch out for.

«Paris confirmed the very positive energy of this fashion month, with some excellent highs, but it was less impactful than Milan in general. Top collections: Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Miu Miu, Vivienne Westwood, and Coperni. Also Zimmermann, Acne studios, Az factory and the discovery of Bruno Frisoni’s footwear. Among the newest designers, Minuit and Germanier,» Federica Montelli, head of buying at Rinascente, stated. «Clou and viral moments: the spray-on dress of Bella Hadid from Coperni, the maxi show in the mud of Balenciaga, Thom Browne with actress Michaela Jaé Rodriguez in the pink Cadillac and Kayne West’s secret show,» Montelli added.

«Paris certainly did not disappoint: lots of energy and a calendar with a compelling mix of brands. However, we would have liked to see more diverse and body positive casting in some of the shows. Saint Laurent, Loewe, Courrèges and Balenciaga with its mud set stood out. Also worth mentioning is the spray-on dress on Bella Hadid at Coperni,» Heather Gramston, head of womenswear at Browns, stated. «In general, rather than trends for next summer, I would talk about a rather somber mood due to global economic uncertainty. A lot of black, tailoring and leather are present in brands like Balenciaga,» Gramston added.

«Paris fashion week confirms itself as the most comprehensive with both emerging and established brands: from Schiaparelli's haute couture presentation to Balenciaga's grunge, but also with Victoria Beckham making her debut in the French capital or brands such as Valentino that have always chosen Paris,» Claudia Gazzelloni, women's buyer at Luisaviaroma, explained. «The best shows were Saint Laurent, Coperni, Courrèges, Sacai and Gauchere. Featured bangs, crochet, and fishnet stockings, cut outs and crystal mesh, sequins, western rodeo and grunge,» Gazzelloni added.

«A fashion week full of shows, presentations, and stimuli, despite the constant thought of the difficult world situation. Coperni was beautiful, while Balenciaga, Thom Browne and Saint Laurent had amazing locations. Worth mentioning among younger brands are Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Atlein and Weinsanto,» Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas consulting, which manages the buying of 40 multibrands in Italy and Europe, commented. «A super crowded and euphoric Paris, under the banner of showmanship. The best shows were Saint Laurent, Dior, Valentino, Balenciaga, The Row, Dries Van Noten, and Coperni. Big return of black, soft jackets everywhere, loose pants or longuette. The sandals with the giant flower and the new Paseo Bag by Loewe, the plexiglas platforms and totes by Valentino are all top accessories,» Gabriele Pancheri, head of buying at G&B, Negozio, explained.

«A very sensual and refined woman in an effervescent Paris. In the foreground dresses and skirts, mini or longuette, with wraparound lines, high heels and platforms. Very black, with touches of bright colors. Saint Laurent, Valentino, Coperni, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney were beautiful. Also, The Row, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Ottolinger did good,» Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for Italian multibrands, stated. «Paris was inspired by Madame de Pompadour and her sensuality. The dresses are very short and couture, the looks transparent and asymmetrical. Very high heels and transparent platforms,» Denis V. Evstafiev, founder of Fashionistas concept, explained, whose best shows were Loewe, Valentino, Saint Laurent, with best locations by Coperni, Balenciaga and Chanel. «Must haves were Loewe's baby doll dresses, Saint Laurent's monochromatic looks with long coats and Valentino's total logos, shoes with long socks (Chanel) and transparent platforms (Coperni and Valentino), Balenciaga's bags and multipocket items (Louis Vuitton),» Evstafiev continued. Now it is up to the market. (All rights reserved)