EnglishOne night with Ysl
«In Saint Laurent, when you look at a woman you know she has the true power». Anthony Vaccarello’s femme models hit the runway in front of the Eiffel Tower with hypergraphic and elongated silhouettes. Between fluid knitwear inspired by Martha Graham dances, the 1980s, hedonistic coats with strong shoulders, and mysterious Grace Jones-like cagoules
«A grown woman? She is not a teenager anymore. Besides, I grew too». Anthony Vaccarello describes this way the woman he imagined for Yves Saint Laurent, with hypergraphic and elongated silhouettes, long transparent knitwear, crossed tops, floor-touching coats and bomber jackets with big shoulders reminiscent of the 1980s. Grace Jones and her extreme figure, always feline, as in an eternal videoclip by Jean-Paul Goude, with that slow sequence reminiscent of a walk in the desert. Not only that, but the inspiration also shifts from the summer couture of 1985 to the clothes made in 1969 in collaboration with Claude Lelanne. With a look to the head-to-toe clothes worn by Martha Graham in her choreographies, declined in a YSL palette, with huge earrings, sunglasses, and cagoules with their mysterious aura.
Impenetrable? Not for the front row where women who know the maison very well are popping up. From Carla Bruni to Shalom Harlow, from Amber Valletta to Kate Moss. They know how to pose in front of photographers and their repeating flashes. And a secret is revealed. «My first fashion show was 50 years ago just with Yves Saint Laurent. And today I love what Anthony does,» iconic Texan supermodel Jerry Hall confided to MFF. She certainly returned to breathe the Parisian air du temps given the super scenic location. In front of the Eiffel tower, the fountain is enlarged to give an effect of cinematic gigantism. As a matter of fact, Vaccarello's women look like something out of a movie. They are nameless killers. They are lovers who are objects of desire. They are belle de jour converted to night.
Judgment. A sharp vision and a flawless message. Anthony Vaccarello is courageous and aware. He chooses his woman with great confidence and launches a very sharp aesthetic imprinting without uncertainty. The show is a maxi event, the community boasts renowned celebrities and a whole new generation. It does not misfire. You can see how the whole machine is organized to go in the same direction. (All rights reserved)
Altre notizie
The fashion industry makes a plea to the Ministry of enterprises
