Off-White's ultra-corps

Blue as a copy paper for the set, with a large monolithic cube in the center of the great hall. Standing out are the images of the dancers, ready to invade the open space in jumpsuits as blue as the makeup that tints their faces. They are aliens celebrating the aesthetic of the Off-White brand which, after the untimely death of Virgil Abloh, for the first time features Ibrahim Kamara at the forefront. A debut cloaked in flashes of photographers and friends of the fashion house, Naomi Campbell in particular, ready to applaud that world of ultra-corps exalted by the show.

Space sense and non-finite sense intersect. Quilts with dangling contrasting threads and portholes opening on the belly of a suit. Puffy backpacks-breeches like the first months of a pregnancy on boys, flowers all over or just on the nipples for an intergalactic traveler’s onesie with wise homages to French talents. Bodies designed on jackets and muscles enhanced by trompe l’oeil with jacquard fabrics reminiscent of the golden age of Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana and Jean Paul Gaultier. Or those bones which are imprinted on jeans like an x-ray, like a new Schiaparelli-like surrealist era. After all we are in Paris, so why not be fascinated by it?

 Judgement. Yesterday would have been Virgil Abloh’s 42nd birthday. A note of great sadness cannot be missed when thinking about his untimely death. The fashion show celebrated his genius, his vision. However, it did so with a touch more like a stylist than a great observer of the real street and a great communicator able to build a bridge between the catwalk and the street. But the way is open, one waits for the evolution. (All rights reserved)