Napoleone: «Pitti's challenge won»

«We are ready to make our contribution to the recovery of Italian fashion and international trade», Raffaello Napoleone, ceo of Pitti Immagine, tells MFF. According to the manager, the attendance at Pitti Uomo 101 is significant and higher than expected, with 548 brands, 151 of which from abroad, animating the historic spaces of the Fortezza da Basso until this evening. «The final number of buyers should be around 4,500», anticipates Napoleon. We are not at the pre-Covid numbers, but still double the number of last July's event. «The entire Pitti Immagine structure has worked to open the show in complete safety. The important presences and the number of exhibitors confirm that the challenge has been won».

How is this Pitti 101 going? Can you give us some figures?

It's going much better than last summer, but we haven't compared it to that edition. In July there were 260 exhibitors and now there are 548. We are practically at 500 journalists present. At the end of the first day, the total number of visitors was already close to 4,000. With over 1046 foreigners from 10 countries. As far as buyers are concerned, Holland leads the way with 102 buyers, followed by France with 85, Germany with 86, Spain with 67 and the UK with 45. I spoke to the press and buyers, and they said there was a great deal on offer.

Pitti usually acts as a thermometer for the year... Can it be defined as the miracle edition?

More than a miracle, it is the edition that confirms the strength of the Italian and international man. Of the positive perspective vision. Of commitment. I know that it has been very hard, very challenging, but we have done what the law said. More than a miracle, I would say a challenge won.

What are the numbers of menswear Made in Italy?

Turnover is almost +11.9% at 9.1 billion. A lower figure than in the past, but one that speaks of important growth. Exports are up 11% to 6.5 billion. The trade balance is 2.7 billion and consumption in Italy: 5.2 billion, +19%. Still far from the 6.3 billion of 2019, and this is an important item, but still growing.

Do you see a change in supply or mentality after this long period in digital?

The rules have consolidated. The physical remains the center absolutely with the additional digital part, helping the physical. Two things that are now indispensable in the distribution and organizational system of our industry. Now we are also talking about the metaverse and other things. But by now the spaces between physical and physical are well defined.

What feedback do you get from exhibitors?

This year I went around more than usual because I wanted to record the mood, and the mood tends to be very positive, because everyone was expecting a less brilliant situation. And instead, we record markets like Switzerland growing by 14%, Germany by 19%, France by 20%, and the United States by 5%. To give an idea, 102 buyers came from Holland for 59 stores, the first country. From France 50 stores and 85 people. From Germany 49 stores and 86 people. Spain 40 stores and 67 people. United Kingdom 27 stores and 45 people. Switzerland 24 stores and 40 people. From America 17 stores and 25 people. From Russia 12 stores and 23 people. These numbers are much less important than the golden seasons, but they give a sense of how the reference markets are there and respond.

Where does the growth come from?

We always talk about exports, but to understand each other, final consumption in Italy is, as I said before, 5.24 billion and domestic consumption has often taken a back seat. Instead it should be seen, at least for the next year and a half and two years, as a great opportunity to be supported, given that many storefronts and retailers have closed in recent months.

What kind of witness do you pass on to Milan?

We pass a positive baton to Milan. At the end of the day, an offer of 550 brands is a good one, and it includes some crazy brands with great quality and planning. All in all, a very strong message comes across, and the feeling is that the fair is the same as always. (all rights reserved)