Moschino’s future after Jeremy Scott

«From April, he will be replaced by the in-house design team». This laconic messages comes from the headquarters of the parent company Aeffe about Jeremy Scott’s farewell from the helm of Moschino after 10 years. «A Maison such as Moschino cannot live without a creative director, we will make an announcement in due course,» an anonymous source close to the operation told MFF. «I am lucky to have had the opportunity to work with a creative force such as Jeremy Scott. I want to thank him for his 10-year commitment. He will forever be part of Moschino’s history,» is the only heartfelt comment from Massimo Ferretti, chairman of the group that closed 2022 with 352 million in sales, 70% of which were generated by Moschino.

«I cannot wait to share with you everything I have in store for the future,» the designer wrote on Instagram, opening speculations about his possible other appointment. However, who could take Jeremy Scott’s place and impose a change of pace on the fashion house after the Us Creative’s decade-long success? And when might this successor be announced? «It is hard to say whether it could be before June and the menswear show. However, it is likely that the successor has already been agreed upon by Aeffe’s top management and that the company is waiting to announce the name out of a form of respect for the outgoing Scott,» another close source said.

The name circulating the most in the style circles consulted by MFF for this survey is that of Giuliano Calza. Born in 1989, the Neapolitan fashion designer founded one of the first social media native brands in 2015 and saw his entry into Quadrivio group capital fund in late 2020. His entry into Moschino could represent a win-win operation for both labels, given as well Calza’s knowledge of the Chinese market (and language, ed.) and the importance of the Asian market for Aeffe. Excluding names such as Harris Reed (who just debuted for Nina Ricci of Spain’s Puig, ed.), there are two other interesting candidates from the Uk. The first subject of Charles III in pole position is Richard Quinn (born in 1990), on the strength of some relevant co-labs with Moncler and the respect of Anna Wintour, who is always present at his fashion shows.

Another name circulating is that of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, the 1990-born Scot with a punk-chic aesthetic and strong genderfluid consciousness. However, he has less knowledge of the market and production mechanisms. A fellow European candidate is Palomo Spain’s Andalusian founder, Alejandro Gómez Palomo, born near Cordoba in 1992 and discovered in 2017 by Carine Roitfeld after debuting the previous year in Madrid, a proponent of an over-the-top and inclusive aesthetic charged with irony. Leaving Europe, two other interesting nominees are circulating, that of New Yorker Colm Dillane, born in 1991 and soul of the brand KidSuper, winner of the special award at the 2021 Lvmg prize and called by Louis Vuitton as a special guest for menswear last January.

Flying to the antipodes, one possible name is that of Japanese Tomo Koizumi, born in 1988 and who emerged at a New York fashion week just before the pandemic. Loved by the likes of Katie Grand and Marc Jacobs, he could be a surprise candidate. Meanwhile, Calza’s stocking rates are definitely on the rise and seem to be outperforming other competitors. «If you cannot be elegant, be at least extravagant,» maison founder Franco Moschino said in an interview. Aeffe was able to take him at his word and win over the fan base and community. Now a new chapter is being prepared. (all rights reserved)