Moschino revolution

Moschino runs. Make up and new fragrances with Euroitalia are under study. And a strong acceleration in Asia. «In China we have 21 direct stores and 7 franchised stores for a total of 28 stores. And we are working on new openings. For now, the country is at a standstill, but we are confident in a decisive restart». Word of Massimo Ferretti, president and ceo of Aeffe group, which has controlled 100% of the brand for just over a year. It closed 2021 with 257 million in revenues and already almost touching a similar figure in the first three quarters, not counting revenues from licenses, now a change of pace is beginning to be felt. The revolution started last year with the purchase of 30% of the remaining capital from Sinv for 66.5 million euros (see MFF of 21/07/2021). «We took back control a year ago, but only in the very last few months have we been able to unveil the new path». There is a lot of meat on the fire. Starting with the fashion house’s 40th anniversary celebrations, which coincide with Jeremy Scott’s 10 years of creative leadership. «On November 15, there will be a first event in Dubai. And in December we will be in Qatar at the same time of the Fifa world cup». Therefore, having full control over the brand as a whole, «we are now in the best condition to be able to govern all activities related to the brand’s value chain, from product to quality and with positive spin-offs on image, distribution and communication». 

You have doubled you direct stores in less than a year to about 30. What do you have planned now?

We trust the Chinese market. The presence in China for the Moschino brand today has 21 direct stores and other 7 additional franchises for a total of 28. And there are new openings expected in 2023, mainly in franchises. The Asia-Pacific region is also strong with 32 direct and 24 franchised boutiques for a total of 56.

 You have unveiled the new store concept in Via Spiga in Milan. Where will you be exporting it?

The first stop will be the UK. The Mayfair boutique is already in make-over and will be reopened in the first part of 2023. Europe is an important market, with Great Britain leading the way. The Middle East remains of great relevance. Special attention will be paid to strengthening the US market.

In the US you are already active in SoHo in New York. Are there more stores on the way?

We are thinking about it but for now I cannot say more.

What about digital?

E-commerce has also reconfirmed itself as a key channel for driving sales. With the experience gained during the pandemic period, our customers are more prepared and equipped with their own tools for online shopping. The experience in physical stores remains essential and the new concept gives an unforgettable experience, fused now with an omnichannel perspective.

Jeremy Scott has often had fashion shows in the US. Do you plan to return to fashion shows abroad?

In early 2023 we will return with our collections on the calendar in Milan, which is our home. We are happy to systematize with the National chamber of italian fashion (Cnmi) to give more strength to our fashion week.

Right in Milan you had a hotel until a decade ago. Is there a possibility of you going back to hospitality?

We have had many solicitations in this regard, but so far none has given us the standards we would like. It may come. But for now, there is not the right project.

Going back to the strategy, it is about internalizing. What role does the Moschino jeans line play?

It is a fundamental label. A sort of password that revisits the historic line designed by Franco Moschino starting in 1986. With the panache of artistic director Jeremy Scott, it embodies the spirit of denim culture and history.

Next year marks the brand's 40th anniversary. What do you remember about the debut? And how will you celebrate?

It was September 1983. Milan was living its golden moment and there was an incredible energy, a mood that we try to maintain. For now, we do not have a fashion show tour planned but a series of events as early as the end of this year.

Where will the celebrations start?

On november 15 we will celebrate the new boutique at the Dubai mall with a big event at the Aura skypool, the world's highest 360-degree pool on the Palm.

From McDonald’s to Barbie, you pioneered co-labs with Jeremy Scott. What will we see in the coming months?

The first event is for the Chinese new year. 2023 will be under the rabbit sign and we will launch a capsule collection with Bugs Bunny. But there are so many projects. There is the partnership with Pantene and Chiara Ferragni. Our agreement with licensees Safilo for eyewear and Marina Salomon for kidswear continues. Moschino's new strategy, however, remains one of direct control, with enough potential to see a major figure run. (All rights reserved)