Milan to restart from womenswear

After the last few seasons of steady recovery, Milan is ready to get into the thick of the revival. Ahead of a women's fashion week that will be packed with events from september 20 to september 26, the city is experiencing a positive moment favored by the return of tourism that is going hand in hand with that of the Italian fashion industry. After six months on a 25% run, fashion economic trends forecasts say the industry will close 2022 with over 92 billion, with 10.5% growth that has brought turnover back to its highest level of the past 20 years. The note points out that the business posted +18% even net of price increases, returning to pre-2008 financial crisis levels. Contributing to the drive were once again exports, which rose by 21.9% in the first five months and by 30.2% for fashion and related sectors, thanks to the performance of the US (+59.7%) and South Korea (+34.1%), as well as the UK (+22.3%) and despite the slowdown in China and Russia.

However, the scenario remains cautious due to the energy crisis. While a positive sign cannot be ruled out for the third quarter, in the fourth one the absence of containment measures by Europe could have a downward impact on the numbers. In addition, according to Eurostat's survey, expectations on the trend of orders of Italian fashion companies, which had improved after the summer of 2020, have stopped growing since may, first in textiles and then in clothing and footwear. In parallel, consumer confidence influenced by the economic climate has also dropped. «The first half of the year was excellent, but it will be necessary to calm energy costs upstream in the supply chain. There is a risk that companies will not be able to stand. I hope the Government can intervene on this situation», Carlo Capasa, chairman of the National chamber of Italian fashion (Cnmi), explained yesterday. The association's number one reiterated the rich calendar of Milan fashion week, made up of 210 appointments, a number «that could increase», he pointed out. There will be 68 fashion shows, 61 of which will be physical and the remaining ones digital, more than 100 presentations and 30 events. «I want to guarantee that we are alongside the workers. The upcoming fashion week will be very important for Milan, a breath of fresh air. The tourism data for july and august were extraordinary. The city showed the ability to adapt to change, but we have to show its best side. It must be attractive, welcoming, it must work», Milan’s mayor Beppe Sala added. «Fashion week will be also the occasion to talk about delicate topics such as sustainability, since the sector is making genuine efforts. Today there is the necessity to go beyond the things we see, we need to show the younger generations that we are able to do so. We are here and we will do our part».

Echoing Sala’s words, Alessia Cappello, councilwoman for economic development and labor policies with responsibility for fashion and design, then added: «I have to agree with the mayor’s words. One of the three values of the memorandum of understanding with Cnmi is the valorization of the made in Italy chain, alongside sustainability and emerging talents. We need to give youth more and more space». The week will open with Milano moda graduate and will close with the Cnmi sustainable fashion awards, whose details will be unveiled in the upcoming days.

Among the most awaited events is the return of Salvatore Ferragamo on Saturday 24, Antonio Marras, Boss, Vivetta, next to the debuts of Bally which will take the runway with the new creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor, and then the Stella Jean/Wami project, and Matty Bovan, a british designer supported by Dolce&Gabbana. Other shows include Fendi, Alberta Ferretti and Roberto Cavalli on wednesday 21, Max Mara, Dsquared2, Prada, Emporio Armani, Moschino and Blumarine on thursday, and Tod’s, Missoni, Etro, Gucci and Versace on friday. Saturday will be the time for the shows of Dolce&Gabbana, Trussardi, Bottega Veneta, Moncler, while Giorgio Armani, Luisa Beccaria and Elisabetta Franchi will walk the runway on Sunday. Moncler’s 70th anniversary celebration is also a major event, alongside the 30th anniversary of Anteprima and the live runway of Act n°1 hosted by maison Valentino on its Instagram account. Lastly, Cnmi will land on Tiktok, an entertainment partner, with an unpublished story covering the creators and the designers, in the name of connecting with younger generations. (All rights reserved)