Milan thrills buyers

A success for Milan’s fashionweek which has conquered buyers interviewed by MFF, thanks to a calendar rich of top shows and events for the 2023 Spring/Summer collection. Among historical locations in the heart of the city and more and more sophisticated suburban venues, the energy spread throughout the entire Milan, which was sold out.

Thunderous applause for Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, Jil Sander, Versace, and Giorgio Armani. Approved were also the debuts as creative directors of Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo, Marco De Vincenzo for Etro, and Rhuigi Villaseñor for Bally. Moncler’s 70th anniversary event in piazza Duomo was spectacular. Glenn Martens’ second test for Diesel performed well. Younger designers include Andreadamo, Del Core, and Alessandro Vigilante.

«A great Milan full of news and beautiful collection. I am optimistic towards the future of the luxury market. For Mytheresa, in 2023, we estimate growth between 16% and 22% and, therefore, our budgets will also grow double digit,» Mytheresa ceo Michael Kliger told MFF. «Extra positive report for this fashion week full of appointments and events. A thrilling Gucci, an extreme modern Prada, Jil Sanders with undoubtable elegance, amazing collection with Kim Kardashian for Dolce&Gabbana, huge Versace show, dreamy Giorgio Armani with its latest collections, wonderful Glenn Martens for Diesel, excellent Nicola Brognano for Blumarine, Tod’s remain an Italian timeless classic for luxury. Positive were the debuts as the creative helms of Ferragamo and Bally. And, among the youngest here, there are Andreadamo, Marco Rambaldi, Alessandro Vigilante and Avavav,» Federica Montelli, Italy’s head of buying at Rinascente, stated.

«For next summer, in the foreground are feminine and sensual dresses interpreted by jersey, with draping, ruffles, necklines, slits, as well as flowing flared pants and very high platforms. Lots of black and strong colors,» Montelli added. Top collections by Linda Fargo, senior vice president and women’s fashion director for Bergdorf goodman, include Prada and Gucci. Roopal Patel, fashion director for Saks Fifth avenue, described Prada as «sublime, dreamy,» Gucci «an epic show», Etro «congratulations to Marco De Vincenzo», and pointed out Fendi, Brunello Cucinelli, La doubleJ, Blazé Milano, Nensi Dojaka and René Caovilla. «I loved Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Dolce&Gabbana, and Jil Sander. Alessandro Michele’s twinsburg show was fantastic, including the soundtrack. Gaetano Pesce’s setting at Bottega Veneta and the spectacular setting of Moncler in Piazza Duomo stood out. Among the younger crowd was Andreadamo. On the trend front, lots of denim, cargos, ‘90s slip dresses, rave influences, tassels and transparent overlays,» Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear and kidswear fashion buying at Mytheresa, explained. «Super Milan with record attendance and three top collections: Gucci was fantastic, starting with the 68 pairs of twins on the runway; Fendi was beautiful, with the fluorescent version of monochrome, elongated silhouettes, rubber platforms and the doubled Peekaboo; Prada was ingenious, with artfully frayed dresses, presenting a disenchanted collection about the world. Praise to the new courses of Ferragamo and Etro. Moncler was the big star in Piazza Duomo. And Tod's Aria d'Italia event represented the atmosphere breathed during this Fashion week,» Daniela Kraler of Franz Kraler stated, who will increase budgets thanks in part to upcoming openings in Bolzano.

«Milan certainly did not disappoint expectations, even with respect to the new courses of Ferragamo and Bally. Gucci was exciting with the 68 pairs of twins. Prada was the highlight: I loved the elegant tailoring, leather garments and lace nightgowns, with an archival bag and Mary Jane shoes with cowboy heels. Among the highlights were Jil Sander in a field outside Milan, Tod's at Pirelli Hangar Bicocca and the set-up with Gaetano Pesce chairs for Bottega. In general, the sensuality of the last two seasons has further evolved with transparent fabrics and striking details. The oversized leather jacket will become a must-have, such as those from Prada and MM6 Maison Margiela. Worth mentioning are Otb's ballet flats and Versace's mega-platforms,» Heather Gramston, head of womenswear at Browns in London, explained. «An effervescent Fashion week with lots of energy. Prada, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana and Fendi were all wonderful. Positive new start for Ferragamo and Bally. Among the young, worth mentioning are Del Core and Ac 9. A key trend was the suit, especially the oversized jacket that can also be paired with a fitted jumpsuit, loose-fitting pants or a longuette. The shopping bags from Prada, Gucci and Bottega, as well as the revisited Peekaboo from Fendi were amazing. Nice shoes from Prada and Bottega,» Gabriele Pancheri, head of buying at G&B Negozio, stated.

«A lively, rich and dynamic Milan. The best shows were Prada, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana and Jil Sander, while Gucci, Ferrari and Moncler had the best locations. Must-haves will be Fendi's new Peekaboo, Prada's pumps, Dolce&Gabbana's shiny corsets and, in general, layering with different fabrics, games of transparencies and feminine dresses. Good debuts by Filippo Grazioli at Missoni and Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally, as well as a confirmation of Blazy at Bottega,» Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas consulting, which manages the buying of 40 multibrands in Italy and Europe, commented. «Our clients will increase their budgets, thanks in particular to the continuous increase in online sales,” they pointed out. “In a Fashion Week of great effervescence, I would emphasize the great commitment seen everywhere, not only by the top brands but also by the smaller ones, always pushing for Made in Italy and excellence,» Mario dell'Oglio of Dell'Oglio stated. «It was an explosive Milan, with a packed calendar. The best collections were Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Ermanno Scervino and Jil Sander. The new courses of Ferragamo, Etro and Missoni were excellent. Among the young, worth mentioning are Sunnei and Alessandro Vigilante. On the trend front we oscillate between a feminine, sensual elegance that is increasingly essential and a more rebellious and transgressive woman,» Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for Italian multibrands, concluded. Now the baton passes to Paris. (All rights reserved)