Milan seduces buyers

A more than positive balance for a Milan fashion week full of shows, presentations, and events, with the strong participation of press and buyers from all over the world and the significant return of chinese and asians in general. The buyers interviewed by MFF promoted with full marks menswear for the spring-summer 2024 collection under the banner of a new, luxurious, masculine elegance, declined in a modern and casual way. The applauded return of Valentino to the calendar kicked off the event, along with the other top collections by Prada, Zegna, Dolce&Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and Etro, while Kiton, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, and Gucci horsebit society were among the presentations.

The excellent participation in the programming of young designers gained strong appreciation, such as Setchu, Magliano, Federico Cina, Jordanluca, as well as the debut of Andersson Bell and Marcello Pipitone. The numerous acclaims for the Fendi show held in the new factory on the outskirts of Florence confirm the increasingly virtuous synergy between Pitti moda uomo and Milano Moda uomo. «A strong week for Milan, with the excellent start marked by the return of Valentino. Italian menswear is experiencing a very positive moment, with so many aesthetics ranging from casualwear to tailoring. We are consciously optimistic and will increase budgets for summer 2024», Michael Kliger, ceo of Mytheresa, said.

«The season in Milan was incredibly elegant and elevated. The designers’ fashion shows were enthusiastic and inspiring, with great attention to detail and craftsmanship, while the luxury and tailored sportwear brands, synonymous with Italian men’s fashion, stood out with a casual and relaxed yet elegant style that was incredibly eye-catching and recognizable. Many collections, for sure, will excite our high-end customers,» Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, explained, who mentioned in particular Valentino and Zegna shows, Brunello Cucinelli and Brioni presentations, Setchu among the younger ones, and Fendi’s factory show in Florence.

«An overall optimistic mood with a good mix of established and next generation brands. It was good to see so many buyers and journalists. The quite luxury trend is still going strong with brands such as Brioni, Zegna, and Valentino. Prada was one of the favorites, along with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showing a more technical but elegant interpretation of their aesthetic. Exciting debuts by Andersson Bell in Milan and Erl at Pitti. Maccapani by Margherita Missoni was nice as well, «Thom Scherdel, buying manager men’s rtw & non-apparel at Browns, said.

«Milan is moving toward a more classic aesthetic, what made in Italy does best, but looking at innovation and younger customers, with a certain fluidity of shapes, materials and a genderless approach. The new generation of designers, led by Setchu and Magliano, and emerging brands such as Marcello Pipitone, are very strong. The tension toward quite luxury, with a renewed tailoring played above all on fluidity and tactility of materials emerges from the runways,» Federica Montelli, head of fashion at rinascente, explained, adding that the best collections for her were Prada, Zegna, Valentino, Giorgio Armani, Etro, Kiton, Magliano, and Msgm.

«A man free to express himself and a fashion week that comes back to animate Milan. The wardrobe of Prada, Giorgio Armani, JW Anderson, and Magliano were special. A special note for Fendi in the factory in Florence,» Beppe Angiolini of Sugar said. «A great edition, with a lot of energy. Menswear is growing very fast and becoming a focal point for so many brands and companies. To find emerging designers on the calendar next to the famous luxury houses was very appreciable as well. Andersson Bell was the best show, under the banner of hybrid clothes, both poetic and playful. Prada was also fantastic: the tailoring mixed with outdoor elements gave a sense of modernity and ease to the tailoring. Among the events, Gucci horsebit society. The key trends are tailoring and simplicity. We saw many shorts, floral elements like embroidery or prints, flat shoes, bags and belts on the runways,» Raphael Deray, buyer men’s luxury & designers at Printemps, explained.

«A great season, with a very positive atmosphere. Great to have Valentino back in Milan. Prada and Zegna were also among the best shows. Many beautiful presentations, in terms of both collections and locations, such as Gucci Horsebit Society, Kiton, Brioni, and Ralph Lauren. The high products and color palette, starting with white, brown and gray, already made us long for next summer. A floral shirt from Valentino, a Richard Gere suit from Armani, and a multi-pocket vest to go with tailored shorts from Prada are among the must-haves. Fendi, Erl, and Brunello Cucinelli were among the best at Pitti» the menswear buyers team at Mytheresa, led by Chris Kyvetos, said.

«A beautiful Milan, under the banner of an elegant man revisited in volumes and colors. Prada, Valentino, Zegna, and Giorgio Armani were the best shows. Federico Cina, Magliano, and Andersson Bell stood out among the younger ones. The Fendi location in Florence was beautiful. The look of summer 2024? Shorts, soft jacket, shirt, socks, and loafers,» Gabriele Pancheri, Head of buying at G&b store, explained. «Prada, Valentino, Zegna, Kiton, 44 Label group were the best collections, within a fashion week where the presence of co-ed shows/presentations and gender fluid proposals remains strong. Fendi in Florence was beautiful. Given the delicate moment, we try to stay fairly flat for budgets with choices aimed at the potential of the various sales channels,» Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas consulting, which manages the buying of some 40 multi-brands in Italy and Europe, said. «A Milan full of events and proposals. Excellent shows by Valentino, Prada, Dolce&Gabbana, Etro, Zegna, Giorgio Armani and the presentation of Kiton. Among the youngest Magliano and Jordanluca and, as a real novelty, Mordecai, the new project of Rg showroom», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for Italian multi-brands, concluded. Now it is time for Paris. (All rights reserved)