Milan’s smart tailoring conquers buyers

The Men’s fall/winter 2023-24 Fashion Week ended on a high note. Buyers interviewed by MFF promoted the collections under the banner of a new masculine, modern, essential, luxurious elegance that enhances the excellence of Made in Italy at its best, with smart tailoring as the protagonist. «Proposals that will certainly attract our clientele,» several buyers commented.

The top shows were Prada, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Zegna and Jw Anderson. Gucci’s first show without Alessandro Michele also received positive consensus, as well as Marco De Vincenzo’s first men’s show for Etro. Presentations by Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli and Kiton were in the foreground, while younger designers included Magliano, Federico Cina and Jordanluca, as well as Charles Jeffrey loverboy’s debut. Next winter’s must-have will be coats, jackets with large volumes, lots of knitwear and leather. Even though budgets are on the rise, they are carefully evaluated given the international context. «Simple elegance dominated in Milan, with a focus on purity of design and luxurious materials. Soft tailoring was in the foreground, with menswear dressed in a relaxed ease that can certainly attract our customers. Highlight from this Fashion Week were Prada and Fendi. Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli and Zegna also did well,» Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, said.

«Many strong shows and presentations, with the return of tailoring in a high key. Top show were Jw Anderson and Prada,» Laura Larbalestier, fashion director of Harvey Nichols group, explained. «Top-notch collections and beautiful prêt-à-porter. We loved the Gucci show, it was great to have it back on the calendar. Other best collections were Prada, Zegna, Fendi, Giorgio Armani. There was a strong presence of over coats, chunky knits, color blocking, maxi tote bags and sophisticated modern tailoring,» Mytheresa’s menswear buying team, led by Chris Kyvetos, said. «Milan bet on its excellence, with a focus on tailoring, well-made garments with luxurious fabrics, putting the product at the center of creativity. Brands have been more rigorous, offering beautiful coats and suits that men will want to wear and still reflect the serious world situation,» Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente, whose best shows include Prada, Dolce&Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Etro, JW Anderson, Msgm and, among the younger ones, Magliano, Federico Cina and Jordanluca, said. «Milan’s key word is simplification. It’s time for a new minimal style at Gucci, Prada created an extraordinary presentation of a fashion with a precise meaning and sense, while Fendi almost a remembrance of the 70s and 80s, with beautiful transversal looks. For Dolce&Gabbana, a perfect editing of their story. For Armani, perfection, gentleness, and the ongoing quest for a modern classic. For Zegna, a praise of cashmere, fabric innovation, functionality, and beauty. Finally, for Jw Anderson, a strong and innovative styling,» Beppe Angiolini of Sugar said.

«It was enlightening to see designers refining their codes and showing precise and timeless proposals focused on their customers, offering collections for modern men who love sophistication and luxury. Gucci was first in the spotlight, but I found Prada’s immersive environment fantastic. JW Anderson continues to break the mold. Brioni, Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli were among the best presentations. The investment coat is the key,» Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matches fashion, explained. «A great fashion week, with lots of great shows and an engaging energy. Top shows were Prada, Magliano, Etro and Zegna. The watchword was simplicity, with classic but twisted tailoring, casual outfits, and fluid silhouettes. Gender fluid is also present with skirts, sheer tops, corsets, and leg warmers,» Raphael Deray, buyer men Rtw luxury & designer at Printemps, said.

«A stronger calendar with the opening of Gucci and the debut of Charles Jeffrey loverboy. Prada was again among the favorites, turning typical wardrobe pieces into must-haves for the new season. Refined minimalism is a key theme. We looked for brands that elevate technical fabrics, combining them with well-designed garments. Another trend is modern tailoring and what recalls it,» Thom Scherdel, menswear category manager at Browns, said. «Prada was the symbol of the fashion week: elegant and fresh under the banner of a reinterpreted tailoring. Top garments were the shirt-collar coats, camel and orange coats, dry pants, and tote bags. Fendi and Zegna were fine, while JW Anderson was pure creative, with the two-tone pink/green mohair knit and the frog shoes as key items. Among the younger ones, I liked Magliano,» Gabriele Pancheri, head of buying at G&B store, said. «A real return to physical fashion shows, with Gucci coming back to Milan presenting a breakout show and many events, filled with international stars. Among the best shows were Dolce&Gabbana and Jordaluca. Charles Jeffrey loverboy was exciting, while K-way and Colmar Revolution were excellent,» Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas consulting, which manages the buying of 40 multibrand signs in Italy and Europe, explained.

«Milan takes its revenge on men, with new elegance, tailoring and strong consistency from big brands such as Dolce&Gabbana, Armani, Zegna, Fendi, Prada and Kiton. Federico Cina and Magliano did well. Milan presented collections under the banner of Made in Italy excellence that reassure the market,» Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for Italian multibrands, concluded. Now it is up to Paris. (All rights reserved)