Milan’s new beginning

The vibrancy of Milan, ready to host a new and rich edition of the Men’s fashion week for fall-winter 2023/24, scheduled for january 13-17, goes hand in hand with that of the Italian fashion industry. According to the National chamber of italian fashion (Cnmi)’s Fashion economic trends, the industry exceeded expected growth estimates, recording a turnover of 96.6 billion euros, up by 16% over 2021.

«The result is above the forecasts made last year, when we expected a 12% increase to 92-93 billion euros» Carlo Capasa, president of Cnmi, highlighted yesterday at the conference presenting Men’s fashion week. The preliminary figures were revised following the positive performance of the third quarter, at +19%. «In our assessments we wanted to maintain zero growth in the fourth quarter for a conservative assumption, so it is clear that we could improve. Despite the difficulties related to the international scenario, we can say it was a positive year for the fashion sector», Capasa continued. «Consumer prices grew more moderately in Italy in october, with +3% against an average inflation of 11.8%. This means that the final product has been less affected by the increase in costs that there have been on the supply chain».

Exports are always leading the way, forecast at 80,8 billion euros for the 12 months, up by 19%, which follows the first nine at +18,7%. Non-EU countries accounted for the lion’s share of apparel, leather and footwear, led by the US (+54,1%) and Korea (+33%). Worth noting is the recovery in China at +18,8% and Japan at +18,4%.

«For 2023 we have not been able to make reliable forecasts because there are too many variables in a context of great market instability. We will be able to give an estimate in the first quarter», the association’s number one continued. Still according to the analysis, uncertainties remain high regarding the impact of the crisis of skyrocketing energy prices, with fears that they may halt production in some intermediate goods sectors in the supply chain. A 2,3% slowdown in global demand for goods and services is also expected in 2023, following the 2021 surge. As for the men’s collection, the protagonists will be a total of 72 appointments, including 21 physical fashion shows and 31 presentations, as well as numerous events.

«Once again Milan confirms its centrality as the capital of menswear. We are always at the forefront for our projects related to sustainability and innovation. A dynamism confirmed by our calendar». Capasa then highlighted the importance of working together with Pitti uomo and their deep connection. «The Men’s fashion week that starts in Florence is the most beautiful in the world. Thanks to the cohesion between Milan and Florence we were able to overcome the hardest moments of the pandemic, continuing to deliver unique content to the sector».

Alessia Cappello, councillor for the economic development with responsibility for fashion and design of the city of Milan, echoed him: «The announced moment of restart has been and is here. We are expecting a fashion week made of novelties and young people. Italian fashion is heading in this direction, giving space to new talents, with their freshness and creativity. I also want to remember our initiative we launched for this edition in support of women from 16 to 30 years old to open up the world of work. Applications are still open».

Going into details of the shows, the anticipation will be for the comeback of Gucci, maison under the Kering group label, which will open the dances on friday at 2 p.m., thus returning to the men’s calendar after a three-year absence, as anticipate at the Milano fashion global summit 2022, Mfgs (see MFF of October 26). On the same day is the 1017 Alys 9sm and Dsquared2 fashion show. Saturday is the turn of Msgm, Emporio Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, then Fendi and Jordanluca in the afternoon, and K-way at 6 p.m. Sunday’s stage will be for Etro at 12 p.m. and Prada at 2 p.m., while in the evening, the Charles Jeffrey’s London-based brand Loverboy will make its physical debut in Milan after its digital presentation last september, followed by Jonathan Anderson’s Jw Anderson. On monday at 11 a.m. there will be Giorgio Armani, and closing the physical fashion show will be Zegna at 3 p.m. The last day, tuesday, will be devoted to digital fashion shows.

As for the presentations, Add, Bonsai, Charles Philip, Iuter, Sestini, Tagliatore, and Valstar will participate for the first time. A pool of events will also enliven the kermesse. It starts with Colmar, which will celebrate its 100th anniversary with a preview of its new revolution collection in Milan. Then on saturday evening, at 8:30 p.m., the first co-lab between Marni and Carhartt wip will be unveiled, while on monday The added element will be dedicated to the technical partnership between The woolmark company and Luna rossa Prada Pirelli, which will bring merino wool to the forefront in the clothing and uniforms of the team and crew.

Among other projects, the Fashion chamber’s commitment to supporting talents, environmental sustainability, and social justice continues. In fact, the call for proposals for the Cnmi Fashion trust grant 2023, promoted by Cnmi Moda fashion trust and created specifically to promote the new generation of independent Made in Italy brands, was also opened for the first time to menswear brands. On the women’s theme, moreover, the association, in partnership with Saleforce and in collaboration with Donne in rete contro la violenza (D.i.Re), also launched the Empowering women in fashion retail mentoring initiative, consisting of ten sessions held by a pool of experts, and dedicated to women from all over Italy with different professional backgrounds. Finally, in march 2023, Cnmi and Zalando will hold a one-day meeting with luxury industry leaders through the Changemakers in luxury fashion event. (All rights reserved)