Milan re-start

«It seems to me a good signal to finally be able to start and have a line-up of great Italian brands together with emegenti and foreign new entries of weight», explains to MFF the president of Cnmi-Camera nazionale della moda, Carlo Capasa at the start of the fashion week that starts today. With 16 fashion shows, 22 presentations, 18 digital contents and 7 events for a total of 53 brands in 60 appointments, this is the most physical edition of Milano moda uomo in the last two years.

Among the big foreign names arriving in the city, the American Matthew Williams (creative guide of Givenchy, in share Lvmh) who makes his Italian debut with his label 1017 Alyx 9sm and has chosen to anticipate for the cover of MFF a look that will be revealed in the show tonight. To open the shows with the creations for autumn winter 2022/23 there will be Zegna, at the first show after the listing on Wall street in presence and streaming. The closing, on the other hand, will be the digital fashion show of Avril 8790 on February 18th. In between the many brands that have decided to transform their fashion shows into digital content and/or presentations by appointment.

Big absentee, as already announced, Giorgio Armani who has postponed everything to February. «By then we expect an important week, with the return of big names such as Armani, Gucci and Bottega Veneta», Capasa stressed. Business was also good. Preliminary figures indicate a growth in turnover of the fashion and related sectors (jewelry, costume jewelry, eyewear, beauty) between +20% and +21%. «And even in 2022, we expect an increase in turnover close to double digits».

Finally, it's on. What are the expectations for this fashion week?

I think it's a good signal from Italian fashion. Responding creatively and resiliently to the situation we are experiencing. It was not easy to confirm events in attendance in these conditions, but we have all tried together, thanks to brands and insiders and institutions, to combine the need to ensure maximum security, on the one hand, with the need for our industry to move forward and work to continue. A message of hope and creativity.

Is the Florence-Milan axis confirmed with Pitti?

It certainly continues. We are fortunate in Italy to have an articulated fashion week together with the Florence fair. From my point of view it is important that we start with the same act of courage and attention and care for people. Attention also for those who work there, therefore making sure that the second largest industry in this country remains so.

What expectations do you have for the business?

In some non-European markets, Italian fashion exports have shown extraordinary growth: +55.2 to China, +31.2% to the USA and +20.6% to Russia. On the other hand, the Brexit effect was strongly felt, with an 18.3% drop in Italian fashion exports to the United Kingdom. The forecast of the trend in 2022 is affected by three factors of uncertainty: the first is the impact of the Omicron variant, the second is the inflationary wave originating from the growth in raw material prices, the third concerns the duration of the logistic difficulties. But growth should still be close to double digits.

How many physical shows are on the calendar?

After some waivers in recent weeks, from the two Armani shows to the JW Anderson show, there will be 16 physical shows. A satisfying number. There are important shows like Zegna, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana, Prada, Etro and a nice mix of young people and historic Italian brands.

Are there any novelties related to the relationship between physical and digital?

This is an absolute novelty in this year's calendar: there are many moments of digital content that are then flanked by the physical presentation. For example, tomorrow at 11am Brunello Cucinelli will hold a digital event on our platform and from 10am to 6pm the physical presentation in its showroom. A mix of digital and physical presentation that allows everyone to see the fashion shows and those who are in town to see the garments live. Once again the phygital comes back where the single brand has the two moments during the day. (all rights reserved)