Milan conquers buyers

Among the highly anticipated creative debuts, Milan impresses buyers who were interviewed by MFF with its plentiful glamorous fashion shows featuring celebrities and supermodels. Naomi Campbell at Dolce&Gabbana and Claudia Schiffer at Versace received high applause. In addition, numerous events and presentations took place. The best shows were Prada, Bottega Veneta, Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, Versace, Jil Sander, and Ferragamo.

Sabato De Sarno and Peter Hawkings made successful style debuts at, respectively, Gucci and Tom Ford. As predicted by buyers (see MFF of September 20), both designers departed positively from their respective Maison’s DNA. The first show of The Attico showcased a strong energy. The presentations of Brunello Cucinelli and Kiton were prominent, while younger Designers such as Del Core, Avavav, ATXV, Setchu, SA SU PHI, Karoline Vitto, and SABIRAH made a name for themselves. Milan provided excitement through glamour and star power. Fascinating models Claudia Schiffer for Versace and Naomi Campbell for Dolce&Gabbana. The energy of Prada was impressive, with a modern collection that catch the brand’s essence, using wearable clothing that is the product of extensive technical research.

Versace’s show evokes a nostalgic trip to the 90s with delicate shades of pink, blue, and yellow combined with the brand’s irresistible charm. We eagerly anticipate the new collections from Gucci and Tom Ford, as well as the rise of Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo. Vice President of Luxury Fashion at Neiman Marcus Jodi Kahn praised The Attico’s debut show. «Milan fashion week was fantastic, with great Maisons showcasing powerful energy. The best collections came from Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and The Attico. New names include ATXV and Avavav. Key trends for spring-summer 2024: micro mini shorts, ballet flats, maxi bags, minimal 90s looks, tassels and fringes» Tiffany Hsu, Chief Buying Officer of Mytheresa, stated. «Gorgeous collections that unveiled new trends, showing very strong statements. The previews of the new artistic directors sparked curiosity and excitement, as well as the established brands. These shows included Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Sportmax along with unexpected others like The Attico. The best shows were those presented by Prada, Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, The Attico, and Versace, which closed with a high note featuring Claudia Schiffer. There were also new names such as Setchu, SA SU PHI, and SABIRAH» Maud Pupato, Buying Director for Luxury Womenswear, Accessories and Footwear at Printemps, stated. «It was a successful season with highly anticipated collections from new Creative Directors at Gucci and Tom Ford, who presented exceptional shows. Best shows were Ferragamo and Prada» Heather Gramston, Senior Head of Women’s and Men’s Buying at Browns, stated.

«Luxury dominated in a busy schedule with most designers taking on this trend, but a greater creative push would have been appreciated. The best collections were presented by Prada, Bottega, Jil Sander, Versace, Ferragamo, and Dolce&Gabbana. The Attico was delightful, and Tom Ford remained consistent with its brand identity. Simone Bellotti did well with Bally, referencing the Swiss brand identity. Sunnei was enjoyable. Among the younger designers, Durazzi and Karoline Vitto» Federica Montelli, Head of Fashion at Rinascente, stated. «Milan Fashion Week was impressive but overpopulated with so many brilliant designs in such a brief duration. The collections possessed exceptional creativity, taste, and quality that the rest of the world envies. Beautiful Dolce & Gabbana, very stylish and inherent in the Maison’s DNA. Fendi was stunning, which is always innovative like Prada. The Jil Sander woman is hyper refined. Roberto Cavalli reintroduced the brand’s essence in a modern fashion. A pleasant surprise from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini. Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, and Santoni stood out among the best presentations» Riccardo Tortato, the new Executive Director of Retail and F&B at Neom in Saudi Arabia, said. «It was a favorable week of debuts, ranging from Hawkings’ first collections at Tom Ford to De Sarno’s at Gucci, along with The Attico’s initial runway show. The best shows were Jil Sander, Gucci, and Ferragamo. The dominant reflection was a nostalgic look at the 1990s, as expressed well by Tom Ford, Gucci, and Versace. Top item are the short shorts. Complemented by fantastic accessories such as Bottega Veneta’s oversized green basket bag, Ferragamo’s day clutch, and Versace’s headbands. SA SU PHI is among the new designers» Libby Page, Net-a-porter’s Market Director, stated. «Milan has a host of events, meetings, and highly engaging parties. The baroque era is over, as Gucci leads in a new season. Its girl walks down the street with effortless, precise, minimal, yet substantial styles. Prada’s edgy image impresses yet again: captivating, marketable, and fashionable. Giorgio Armani embodies the refinement of simplicity, while Fendi pays homage to the splendor of Rome through a sumptuous and sophisticated wardrobe. Diesel showcases the denim trend alongside plenty of experimentation. Finally, The Attico challenges traditional femininity with unconventional style », Beppe Angiolini of Sugar said.

«In the joy-filled Milan Fashion Week, my favorite was Dolce&Gabbana. Bottega Veneta had a stunning location and an intriguing new Sardine bag. However, I regretted experiencing reception problems at Malpensa Airport and discovering huge prices for hotels and transportation in Milan», Feras Al Yasin, Managing Partner of Ever Fashion in Qatar, stated. «Milan was overpacked with buzz and fantastic collections from both top brands and emerging designers. They all showcased creativity and drive. Fendi’s incredible class. Sabato De Sarno did a great job at Gucci, meeting my expectations. I also enjoyed Hawkings’ new start at Tom Ford. Jil Sander’s collection was beautiful as always. The Moncler x Pharrell Williams megashow was impressive, and Cucinelli and Kiton gave outstanding presentations. I would like to give a special mention to Camera Buyer Italia for supporting brands like Pianegonda, Fiorucci, and Flower Mountain», Daniela Kraler of Franz Kraler, stated. «Milan was bustling with activity. Prada took the top spot with their charming fringed skirts, chiffon dresses, and fringed belts that will become a must-have. Gucci was stunning, providing a great start for Sabato De Sarno. Bottega Veneta showed exceptional creativity, showcasing amazing shoes and bags, while Fendi’s designs were elegant and sophisticated. Dolce&Gabbana was sexy and feminine. Hawkings at Tom Ford exemplified the brand’s standards. The Attico and Del Core also did great. The attire for women in summer 2024 will consist of a Gucci Jackie bag, mules, shirt, and pencil skirt», Gabriele Pancheri, the Head of Buying at G&B Negozio, said.

«Stunning collections showcase quiet elegance, though the unreasonable price hike may be a downside. Bottega is renowned for its extraordinary manufacturing ability and creativity. Prada is widely recognized for innovation. Gucci has undergone a stylistic reset to herald a new era. Fendi is exceptional for its refined elegance. Etro and Emporio Armani are also outstanding. Act N°1, Del Core, and Vincenzo Civita for Officina Artistica were among the best younger collections», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, Buying Consultant for a multibrand retailer, said. Finally, clothing trends reveal an increase in «hemlines, with shorts paired with shirts or tunics and mini lengths on skirts and dresses. The use of high craftsmanship, fringing, shine and crystals is also on the rise. The industry is moving towards tonal dressing, with palettes like pink, blue, Max Mara’s khaki, and Bottega’s burgundy gaining popularity. Some must-have bags include the white basket, Sardine bag with a chain handle, and Bottega’s oversized tote» Liane Wiggins, Head of Womenswear at MATCHESFASHION, shared her enthusiasm for these trends. The fashion scene will now shift its focus to Paris. (All rights reserved)