Milan conquers buyers

Crowds for every fashion shows, numerous international celebrities, mega presentations, and glamorous events. Milano Moda Donna embraced the entire city with a great celebration of the fashion system that looks to the future with optimism, despite the not easy international scenario. From the US, Europe, the Middle east, with the return of Chinese and Asians in general, as well as some representation from Ukraine and Russia, the many buyers present in Milan greatly appreciated the womenswear collections for fall-winter 2023/2024, as reflected in MFF interviews. Prada, Bottega Veneta, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Fendi, and Jil Sander were covered in applauses. The choices of some creative directors on their second try such as Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo and Marco De Vincenzo for Etro were confirmed as winners.

Max Mara, Diesel, Blumarine and Cavalli also met the consensus, as well as the presentation by Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana. Armarium, Des Phemmes, Del Core, Andreadamo, Marco Rambaldi, Vitelli and Cormio stood out among young people. «Milan welcomed us with palpable energy, thanks to the highly anticipated shows of some new creative directors such as Maximilian Davis and Marco De Vincenzo. The Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Etro shows stood out with modern proposals of beautiful, wearable, and impeccably made clothes. Davis’ vision for Ferragamo was brilliant. The quintessential luxury of Brunello Cucinelli is a serene break from the crowded halls of shows», Jodi Kahn, vice president luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus, said. «We confirm increasing budgets for next winter», Mytheresa ceo Michal Kliger explained. «Matthieu Blazy shines at Bottega Veneta with incredible workmanship and detailing. At Prada, the collaboration between Miuccia and Raf gets even stronger. For next winter, it is even more evident a shift from a Gen-Z style to a more adult clientele. Tailoring and wardrobing are key themes. A nod to punk and Vivienne Westwood in unexpected places, such as Fendi», Heather Gramston, head of womenswear at Browns, commented.

«It is hard to make a shortlist, I would definitely mention Prada, Bottega Veneta, Diesel, Dolce&Gabbana, and Jil Sander. Good second tries from the creative directors of Ferragamo and Etro. Blumarine and Cavalli were excellent, Sunnei is experiencing a joyful moment. Among the younger ones, Del Core, Andreadamo, Marco Rambaldi, and Vitelli stood out», Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente, said. «Prada was conceptual and sophisticated. Gucci was beautiful, between past and present. Giorgio Armani went against all excess. Jil Sander remained minimalist and sophisticated. Fendi was a modern classic. The Fashion Hub by the National Chamber of Italian Fashion that enhances emerging talents was interesting, and The Best Shops awarded Ascend Beyond and Cavia», Beppe Angiolini of Sugar stated. «I loved Gucci with an excursus from Tom Ford’s tailoring to Alessandro Michele’s eccentric designs. Blazy put up another extraordinary collection with Bottega. Ferragamo won best set-up with a futuristic location. The key trends were shadow tailoring, pure seduction looks, super voluminous and fluffy coats and surreal shoes as at Gucci and Bottega», Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear and kidswear fashion buying at Mytheresa, explained. «Milan was overall a success. I loved Prada. Maximilian’s show at Ferragamo is a highlight. Diesel and Gucci should also be mentioned. Y2K style is increasingly establishing with certain codes that people like, such as roses, ruffles, cargo, high heels, corsets, cropped jackets, denim, chokers. Sensuality and femininity evolve toward a very strong silhouette in which the body is sublimated with thin sheer knits, a single bodysuit as an outfit, skirts in every way and high heels. Only one color: red», Maud Pupato of Printemps, said.

«Dolce&Gabbana, Ermanno Scervino, Lorenzo Serafini’s Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli were particularly beautiful. We have reduced budgets, but we keep buying because we have 800 employees in Ukraine that have to work. Our multibrands in Kiev, Odessa, Lviv, Dnipro are open, and we also sell online. People are buying because they are somehow trying to live along with this situation, but you cannot get used to war. Our profits support the army», Anastasiya Taran, buying manager and owner of Symbol, said. «From ready-to-wear to bags and shoes, everything was chic, wearable, and modern in Milan. Top collections were Bottega Veneta, Max Mara, Prada, and Armarium. Strong outerwear from brands like Prada, Max Mara, and Gucci, while smart and light layering from Bottega. Easy, ton-sur-ton clothing from Max Mara and Loro Piana, while luxury bags with a heritage flavor from Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Armarium and Etro», Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at Matchesfashion.com, explained.

«The collections were more wearable and saleable than ever, with some strong genderfluid proposals featuring touches of color. The top show was Ferragamo, super elegant and incredible tailoring. We loved Marco De Vincenzo’s Etro, La DoubleJ’s presentation, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci waiting for De Sarno’s debut. The minimalism we already seen in New York and London continued here at Gucci, Ferragamo and Bottega. So did that of the brown tonalities seen at Etro, Loro Piana and Max Mara», Libby Page, market director of Net-a-Porter, said. «A very lively, dynamic fashion week, full of fashion shows and events with lots of celebrity guests. Nice performances and locations by Gucci, Sunnei and Diesel. Excellent shows by Gucci, Prada, Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta. Among the younger ones, the new Benetton by Andrea Incontri, Marco Rambaldi, Cormio and Gcds. Big focus on femininity, with lots of transparencies, mini lengths, and exposed lingerie. Our clients confirm the budgets», Alessandro Locati and Debora Bernardi of Plas consulting, which manages the buying of 40 multibrand in Italy and Europe, said.

«An effervescent Milan with lots of beautiful proposals. Prada was fantastic, with strong identity: the white embroidered skirts were super chic with suede jackets, the handbags and the pointed low shoes with applied flowers were also top. A great re-interpretation of its archival pieces by Gucci, while Dolce&Gabbana was gorgeous creating a beautiful, elegant woman, which is in the brand’s dna. Jil Sander was very sophisticated. Fendi’s accessories are also worth mentioning. Nice work by Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo. Among the younger ones, Des Phemmes», Gabriele Pancheri, head of buying at G&B Negozio, said. «Milan is becoming the capital of fashion. The must were sensuality, transparencies, and red color, along with a bit of respectability. Dolce&Gabbana was beautiful, reintroducing its hyperfeminine woman, together with Ferragamo and the excellent work of Maximilian, and Prada, N°21, Ermanno Scervino, and Mirco Giovannini. Among the younger ones, Des Phemmes and Cormio», Tiberio Pellegrinelli, buying consultant for italian multibrands, concluded. Now it is time for Paris. (All rights reserved)