Milan back to the future

Back to the future for Milan menswear. «This is the first truly physical fashion week since January 2020» Carlo Capasa, president of the national Chamber of italian fashion (Cnmi), emphasized to MFF. The fashion week will go on stage from today until June 22 with 25 fashion shows, including Moschino and Versace, while digital events will all take place on the last day.

Cautious forecasts from Cnmi, which estimated sales of 92 billion euros for the year relative to all Made-in-Italy fashion, up by 10.5% on 2021 and above pre-Covid-19 levels (+2.1%). "We are positive but also realistic in view of rising raw material prices and the pandemic in China". Menswear, however, is growing more. Already in 2021, according to Confindustria Moda data, menswear stands at 9.4 billion euros and is recovering more than womenswear (+15%). This data is even better if all segments from eyewear to other accessories are included, with a total value of 13.9 billion euros. Meanwhile, until Tuesday, Milan Men's Fashion Week will bring to the stage 70 appointments, 61 of which are physical. On the agenda, 25 fashion shows and 24 presentations, 3 of them by appointment, as well as 5 digital contents, all taking place on the last day, and nine events. Kicking off today at 6 p.m. in Via Moncucco with a mega show by brothers Dean and Dan Caten for Dsquared2, who gave us an exclusive preview of a look for the cover of MFF.

There will be some important comebacks. Moschino will return to Milan with the men's show in attendance on Sunday at 5 p.m., while on Monday there will be, as usual, Giorgio Armani's double show at 10:30 and 11:30 a.m., which during the week will also open the doors to a special project: a temporary exhibition on the ground floor of Armani/Silos. On the same day Gucci will re-enter the agenda with a presentation, while at 7 p.m. all attention will be on Zegna, which will close the calendar with a show at Oasi Zegna in Trivero. J.W. Anderson, who presented digital content in January, and 44Label Group, founded by Berlin-based DJ Max Kobosil, will walk the runway for the first time.

As well as Chinese brand Joeone, Italian Family First, Simon Cracker and indian designer Dhruv Kapoor. For presentations, among comebacks there will be Corneliani, Luca Larenza and Pal Zileri, while Lessico Familiare|Gianmarco Porru, Altea, Sease and in digital format Charles Jeffrey Loverboy will all debut.

Jonathan Anderson is debuting with his first physical show outside London and will hold a party on Sunday as well as Marcelo Burlon, who is going to celebrate the 10th anniversary of his brand tomorrow, and Plein Sport, which is planning its own party. The hunt for the invitation has started also for Dolce&Gabbana and Persol's cocktail party tomorrow night, at a time when the two designers are particularly active (see MFF of June 16). «There is a good energy, started in Florence and continuing in Paris. We are in full synergy with this city in a European perspective to defend sustainable and quality fashion» Capasa stated.

Here we go again. What do you expect for this fashion week?

This is the first truly physical fashion week since January 2020. Almost back to the future. There will be all the big brands as well as space for young people. 

Can people finally attend the fashion shows without a mask?

The audience can wear it or not. Personally, I urge everyone to be cautious. We are recovering from two difficult years and the virus has proven treacherous. However, we are all vaccinated and there is a real desire for responsible normality.

Is the Florence-Milan axis with Pitti confirmed?

It definitely continues. In Italy we are lucky to have an articulated fashion week as well as the Florence fair. In my opinion, it is important to start with the same courage and care for people. Which means also care for those who work there, making sure that the second largest industry in this country stays that way.

What are your expectations in terms of business?

A turnover of 92 billion euros for the year relative to all Made-in-Italy fashion is expected, with a 10.5% increase on 2021 and exceeding pre-Covid-19 levels by 2.1%. We are positive, but realistic in view of rising raw materials prices due to the war in Ukraine and lockdowns in China. However, menswear is increasingly growing. According to data from Confindustria Moda, menswear with 9.4 billion euros has, already in 2021, recovered more than womenswear (+15%).

Are the buyers, including Japanese and Koreans, returning?

Everything has been confirmed. After the great return of the Americans, now it is the turn of Japan and Korea, which have recently reopened. There is going to be a good mix.

Speaking of the government, is there ongoing attention to the industry from institutions?

Yes, there is attention. Aid has already arrived on the expensive energy front. With the ministries concerned we are working on training and re-skilling of professionals in our sector. A unique heritage of Made in Italy.

Is there more synergy or competition with Paris?

Relations are very good. Tuesday will be a digital day to allow everyone to move to France easily. In Europe, we and French people speak with a single voice to defend sustainable and quality fashion. (All rights reserved)