EnglishMichael Kors’ Boho queens
«From Yoko Ono to Tina Turner, Cher and Gloria Steinem to my own mother. I am drawn to women who can break the rules». The Us designer thinks of soft silhouettes with a cool soul, amid long fringes, earthy colors, spotted safaris and dramatic sequins
«I started spending time in Greenwich village when I was 13-14 years old. The atmosphere was urban bohemian». This is how Michael Kors began his tale, while looking at the mood board full of photos that set a path for the fall-winter fashion show.
«Then and now, the women who intrigue me are mainly those who can break the rules», Kors continued, «who do things their own way and who, even though they have the power, are strong and smart and are not afraid to say they love fashion. Yoko Ono, Tina Turner, Cher and Gloria Steinem are all remarkable women in every way. Then Jane Fonda, Aretha Franklin and Ali MacGraw, all the way down to my mother, who tried out for the Philadelphia eagles (Us football team, ed.). She was an athlete and a feminist. The club said that they were going to have an open cast for football players, so my mother went to Philadelphia and they refused to allow her to do it. I learned from her you never listen to the word «no». Just go forward».
The parterre was also filled with friends with strong personalities, some old and some new ones. From Kate Hudson to Katie Holmes, from Beatrice Grannò to Simona Tabasco, the two Italian actresses that skyrocketed in popularity thanks to The white lotus and are now loved in the Us. In front of them, boho chic queens took the runway, seasoned with that signature Michael Kors’ glamour. The big coats skim the ground, earthy colors dominate the scene with browns, with spotted patterns for a metropolitan safari for those trench coats that will not only be used in rainy days. The silhouettes are elongated, fluid, with a waist emphasized by a vintage belt of the designer that is almost two decades old.
«For me, you only became vintage after 20 years, certainly not after three as some people say», the designer joked, revealing his mantra for big-city cold weather as he moved his lines with waves of long fringes: «Cashmere, cashmere, cashmere». Then he opened a high-grade bling ring finale: sequins all over dresses with trains and coats with a masculine touch, and an assured drama effect with the last model wearing a rock and intense cape.
Judgment. So, Victoria Ceretti was in New York, but she deserted it all to open the Kors’ show by surprise. The occasion and the cast were perfect. The collection has that super fluid glamour factor that is the true seal of the Us designer. All very easy on paper, but always ready to make one feel cool and to attract photographers. A fashion showstopper. (all rights reserved)