MFF 111 - Silvia Venturini Fendi: «Families are also the ones you choose»

Family first. Fendi’s history has always been linked to the concept of family. Strong women who built a company representing Italian fashion, together with a male figure with whom the perfect alchemy has been created. Karl Lagerfeld first, Kim Jones today. It is as if everything was written in the stars. After the death of the designer who for over 50 years worked alongside the Fendi sisters in the process of establishing the fashion house’s image, Kim Jones’ arrival was fundamental in recreating a magical balance.

Since his appointment, about a year ago, as Artistic Director of Fendi’s Couture and Womenswear, the British designer joined Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director for Accessories and Menswear, kind of squaring the circle. Not surprisingly, it was Jones himself who wanted to consolidate the family vision, by appointing Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Silvia's daughter, as Artistic Director of Jewelry, creating a strong bond with LVMH Maison’s DNA, which is being strengthened season after season.

The FW 2022/23 collection presented at Milan Women Fashion is emblematic, resulting from the fusion of two historical collections, between tailoring and lightness, masculine fabrics and pastel colours. «Hard and soft», as Kim Jones defined it. A three-way dialogue capable of giving shape to different facets of the brand's universe, told through the lens of its conductors, because «families are not only those you find yourself in, but also those you choose», as Silvia Venturini Fendi loves to repeat.

In the FW 2022 fashion show you presented Fendi's most iconic bags...

Since Kim Jones was very inspired by Fendi's history, I told myself, «Well, its bags are its history as well». Therefore, we included the Peekaboo, the Baguette, turning 25 years old this year, the Fendi First and the Fendigraphy that we launched in our last collection and is having a great success.

It is nice that you, as a woman, test the bags, show how they should be worn...

The attitude is important, it changes everything. The Baguette’s success is also due to this, the fact that it should be worn under the arm, leaving the hands free. Things change also based on the moment, a bag is never just a bag.

Would you say a good part of the Baguette’s success is also due to how it is worn?

Of course, and also the fact that it was such a small bag, which could seem like a useless object but, actually, since it was soft it could contain many things. It was well designed. It was not just a fashion item, but an alternative.

You are more and more a family at Fendi...

Yes, and it is wonderful. Families are not only those you find yourself in, but also those you choose. I have a long-standing friendship with Kim. We met in Rome about ten years ago at a Suzy Menkes conference on luxury. We were both shy among all those people and we chose each other. We have kept in touch since then and a beautiful friendship was born. Then one day we said it would be nice to do something together and eventually that day arrived. In a corner of my mind, I have always thought that Kim might be the person I could best relate to.

And how has this year of working together been?

It has been a year full of difficulties, but we overcame them all. If there is will, things happen. Especially if there is a good dialogue and Kim has been able to conquer everyone. I think that he has always felt at home from day one and that certainly helped, since sometimes we had to communicate just online, work separately or transport the collections around the world where it was possible to meet. In sum, it was not easy. Flexibility was the key word. Of course, it was not ideal to debut and to work extensively at a fashion house that you want to approach and have time to get to know better, but we are having excellent results. We are very happy.

You work with your daughter as well, Delfina Delettrez Fendi...

This is amazing. As a mother who knows what the «burden» of being a daughter of art means and the consequent scepticism of people, who are inclined towards not objectively evaluate the person as such, I would never have proposed her to work in the company. First of all, because the company is no longer family-owned, and then for a matter of pride. Kim would ask me, «Why does your daughter not work here?» and I used to reply, «Because she is my daughter». It was him who asked for my permission to include her in his team and I was very glad about it.

Who has the final say between the two of you?

She is totally autonomous in her field (Delfina Delettrez Fendi is the Artistic Director of Jewelry, ed.), there is no need to interfere. Not to mention that we often say the same things. There is a good dialogue.

It is great that you have been able to maintain the family brand’s identity in a large group such as LVMH... Considering it is the only brand today with this kind of feedback on the market.

It is the only one, yes. I would define it as a matter of alchemy since there are no rules. I was able to get along with a genius like Karl Lagerfeld for many years because we obviously worked well together, and I have got this great affinity with Kim as well. By the way, their birthdays are one day apart, they are the same zodiac sign, Virgo... I am Virgo ascendant, so we really get along. In addition, I can see similarities in some respects, for example they share a great sense of humour. I love people who can maintain a light-hearted spirit even at work. We are here 12 hours a day, so you must be here with joy, otherwise it becomes very tiring.

What did Karl Lagerfeld leave you and what did you learn from Kim Jones? What did you pass down to both of them?

First of all, I would say freedom of expression. Being free to pursue your own proposals without jealousy, without prevarication and doing a real teamwork. It was a characteristic of Karl as well as of Kim. (All rights reserved)