Menswear driven by exports

As Pitti Uomo is just around the corner, with its 103rd edition scheduled for January 10-13, the menswear sector is confirmed to be growing, but the focus for the coming months remains cautious. According to analyses prepared by the Confindustria Moda study center for Sistema moda italia (SMI), 2022 still looms as a year not without obstacles in relation to multiple factors and events, from the energy crisis to rising costs, to the ongoing Russian-Ukrainian conflict. A scenario in which a possible upcoming slowdown in demand due to a climate of increased uncertainty cannot be ruled out.

In the January-July period of the current fiscal year, as indicated by Istat data, the numbers remain positive, with the sector driven by foreign trade. The recorded increase is 6% for 4.07 billion euros and 28.6% for imports at 3.26 billion euros. «The first half of the year was exceptional, we are looking at a very bright 2022, which will end on a positive note. Our system is holding, the world wants Italian products, designed and made in our territory», Claudio Marenzi, President of Pitti Immagine, explained yesterday. «Besides the slowdown in store performance for the months of October and November due to the weather, we are not calm because the situation on the horizon remains complicated due to rising costs, procurement and production capacity. Many companies are not achieving turnover because they cannot produce due to the lack of labor force, which will remain a constant for the coming years. Therefore, the organization of the industry will have to be more precise, companies will have to center their budgets».

Also according to the analysis of the first seven months, growth came both from non-European areas (+4.7%), which are currently the strongest buyers with a weight of 54.2%, and from Europe (+7.7%). Switzerland (+2.7%) topped the list, followed by France (+11.3%) and Germany (+1.4%). The US jumped to fourth place, buoyed by a 46.7% sales run, totaling 390 million euros. Nearly stable in fifth position was the UK (-0.4%), followed by China, which suffered a 12.6% decline. Also on the same trend were Japan (-22.3%), Hong Kong (-20.5%) and Russia (-26.6%).

As for the event, it will bring a total of 759 brands under the spotlight, 40% of which are foreign. «We are satisfied, recording a significant return of exhibitors. Attendances are continuing to rise, but compared to before, brands remain cautious about investments, with longer lead times for various decisions to participate in fairs and events. For buyers, too, we will return to normal for many countries, starting with the US. We expect the best buyers from around the world, we are confident of the possibility of attracting more», Raffaello Napoleone, ceo of Pitti Immagine, added.

«Restarting is everyone's desire. The moment remains one of great difficulty but there is a desire to move. A mood that we have encapsulated in the new Pittiway concept», general manager Agostino Poletto added, highlighting the return of the «I Go Out» section, alongside «Fantastic Classic», «Futuro Maschile», «Dynamic Attitude», as well as the expansion of the Superstyling area. The green S|Style Sustainable Style section will not be missing. Also, two special areas have been added, namely The Sign and Pittipets, dedicated to design and the world of animals, respectively.

Among the highlights, Bikkenbergs will return to the Sala della Volta, Ecoalf will unveil the «Because There Is No Planet B» photocall, aiming to inspire planetary protection, while Holubar will celebrate its 75th anniversary with three projects. Finally, Piquadro will sign a line of hi-tech and functional outwear and Superduper a collection created with Lorenzo Jovanotti, in the sign of the most transversal creativity, inherent to the DNA of Pitti Uomo. 

Pitti Bimbo kicks off with more than 250 brands, 70% of which are foreign

«A turning point edition made up of returns and new brands» this is how Raffaello Napoleone, ceo of Pitti Immagine, defined the next Pitti Bimbo, expected at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence from January 18 to January 20, 2023. «We expect a total of 250 brands (compared to the 210 of last June, ed.), a quantity that is continuing to grow. We continue to select to give the market a complete and evolving offer. In addition to apparel, there will be more jewelry, beauty, toys, eyewear and footwear,», the CEO pointed out, also emphasizing the change in distribution, previously made up 60% by boutiques, while now represented 50% by chains and 30% by large-scale retail. «International markets are recovering», Agostino Poletto, general manager of the kermesse, added. Already confirmed for buyers are numerous presences from areas including Qatar, Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, South Korea and the US. As for the foreign weight, while 70% of the exhibitors will be foreign, in the first seven months of the year the baby fashion market was marked by sales down 11.7% to 92.3 million euros, driven downward by a drop in sales in Europe (-10.7%) and outside Europe (-12.9%), according to surveys carried out by the Confindustria Moda study center for Sistema Moda Italia (SMI). By contrast, the sell-out of junior fashion in Italy grew by 6.4%. Among the highlights, day one of the show will open with a fashion show by Monnalisa, Rossignol will launch its first Junior Lifestyle collection, and Dolce&Gabbana will interpret the Pittiway concept. (All rights reserved)

The show lights up with events featuring Martine Rose and Jan-Jan Van Essche

Pitti Uomo is preparing to turn the spotlight on a pool of events and new projects. In a still top-secret location, the Anglo-Jamaican designer Martine Rose, guest designer of the next edition of the show, will unveil the Fall/Winter 2023/2024 collection of her eponymous label with an event on Thursday, January 12. Thanks to the Cuoio di Toscana prize initiative, she will also create a capsule of footwear with the iconic green sole, a manifesto of the consortium's sustainable values. Belgian designer Jan-Jan Van Essche, as a designer project, will bring his concept of fluid and essential fashion to Florence in a unique event scheduled for Wednesday, January 11. «It will be my brand's first ever fashion show, being able to organize it in the unique atmosphere of this city makes it even more special», he commented. On the evening of the same day, from 6 to 8 p.m., Pierre-Louis Mascia will present Philocalie at Palazzo Antinori, an anthology that encompasses nature, culture, art and fashion and finds expression on fabrics made by Achille Pinto, who in 2023 will celebrate fifteen years of partnership with the brand. Then the series of events signed Palazzo Finlandese will return, featuring the presentation of the Vain brand, founded in Helsinki by Jimi Vain and inspired by rap and nu metal culture. Chateau Orlando, a clothing, accessories, home décor and lifestyle brand created by British designer Luke Edward Hall, will instead take the stage at the Hall of Nations with a special installation, in an eclectic mix of classical and contemporary art, music and folklore. (All rights reserved)